From: Jan Norris (Denver, CO)
In Reply to: Re: Demi-permanant color-for Jan or color experts posted by d on September 6, 2008 at 6:29 am:
As a professional colorist, there are a number of factors I take into consideration when formulating color. All demi lines use a low volume peroxide to develop the color. There is a great deal of misinformation and misunderstanding about ammonia. Demi permanent hair color does not require ammonia because it does not significantly penetrate into the hair; however, if lift and deposit is desired (permanent, oxidative hair color) ammonia or an ammonia substitute is necessary. Ammonia does has a pungent smell and that seems to be its offense. It does, however, immediately leave the hair upon rinsing. The new buzz phrase in the hair color world is "Ammonia Free" or even as far as "All Natural or Organic." These statements are very misleading. If pure ammonia is not used, then Monoethanolamine or MEA's is the catalyst. The problem with MEA's is that they are equally or more alkaline than ammonia and most importantly, they NEVER rinse out of the hair. Ammonia is a pungent, colorless gas and is used in haircolor to swell the cuticle. When it is mixed with peroxide, it activates the oxidation process on the melanin and allows the melanin to decolorize. Do not be fooled into thinking this chemical process is not taking place just because something states it is "Ammonia Free or Organic." Companies are permitted to call a product "Organic" as long as it contains some orgainic material! Personally, I would not use a color line that contains MEA's. I prefer to deal with a bit of odor from the ammonia, knowing that the minute I apply water...it's gone from the nose AND isn't leaving a caustic residue in the hair that is activated with every shampoo.
I do not formulate hair color like most do (Ask Denise!) I'm a bit of a "mad scientist" and I definitely color "outside the lines." A glaze is normally done with a demi permanent color and has many names...Glosser, Shine Treatment, Balancer, ect. My strongest recommedation to you is to see a colorist that truly understands how to color hair that has previous chemical history. Formulating color for TR'd hair requires a thorough understanding of what the hair has been through and it is best left to an expert in the field.