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From: Mickie (188.8.131.52)
Subject: Hair That Won't Straighten
Date: July 25, 2007 at 8:59 pm PST
In Reply to: Had TR and hair still wavy - need advice! posted by Spa Girl on July 24, 2007 at 8:01 am:
Uneven hair porosity will lead to uneven penetration of chemicals during processing. Hair has varying degrees of porosity or resistance along its length with hair nearest the scalp being less damaged, and therefore, more resistant to penetration than hair near the ends. This explains why some people say: I love my TR, however, the ends of my hair are fried.
Most hair care products, including shampoo and conditioners often leave a waxy film on the hair. Coatings have negative effects on chemical services, they counteract the lasting qualities of chemically straightened hair. Occasionally, hairsprays leave a coating on the hair shaft that cant be removed with normal shampooing. This type of coating should be removed before beginning any reactive chemical process.
You will find this even more so with long hair (6 inches or longer) or hair with straightened or color-processed ends. Not making allowance for this variability can lead to uneven straight patterns, extreme dryness near ends or broom-stick-like frizzy ends with not enough straightness near the scalp. Some clients seem to have a hair variation which causes rapid reversion. This variation may be influenced by medicines and the state of health. This hair also seems to have excessive elongation. Bleached/highlighted hair has less structural support, and usually reverts more quickly.If there is still curl or wave in the previously treated hair only this is treated. The other hair is usually protected by using oil or conditioner so the solution will not saturate into the previously treated hair. If there is still curl or wave in the previously treated hair, the solution can be applied, but for a shorter period of time.
There are two different types of protein within the cortex of the hair. They are called either low sulphur proteins or high sulphur proteins. Low sulphur proteins are spring-like in shape and account for nearly 60% of the cortical protein. High sulphur proteins account for nearly 40% of the cortex. They can be thought of as glue which locks the springs in place. When hair is being chemically treated/TRd, the glue is softened and the springs move to a straightened form. The glue is then hardened to lock the springs into their new straight position. The glue like protein needs time to harden. Thus, explaining why you should not wet or shampoo the hair for 48-72 hours after the straightening service.
I know this is complicated but reason it through. If you have a history of complain of poor hair straightening/TR results, it is unlikely that this will be corrected regardless of straightening creme solutions, technique, or skills. The reason is probably your hair itself. While not completely proven, it appears that certain individuals have a higher percentage of spring-like proteins. The normal percentage is about 60% springs and 40% glue. A higher percentage of spring-like proteins mean that the hair can readily be stretched but because of the lower percentage of glue, the straightness is not held very well and reverts back. While the hair looks and behaves normally in other ways, it does not hold a permanent straightener or set as well as others.
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