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From: UnSprung (188.8.131.52)
Subject: In response to all the emails-
Date: April 19, 2007 at 11:12 am PST
In Reply to: The truth about BKT - real before and after pictures posted by Lulu on April 18, 2007 at 8:50 am:
Due to the volume of emails....
Here are the issues we are still investigating;
1.fumes. We wear gas respirators with Formaldehyde cartridges, goggles, gloves. Our eyes
are still affected by the fumes. Our clients are uncomfortable with the fumes. We have
excellent ventilation that does not recirculate air, but removes it completely from the salon.
2.long term affects on hair. ANY build up service(including semi-permanent color) potentially
causes cuticle damage. We'd like to know how much, before recommending this to people
with long hair, or who are growing out their hair, having healthy hair as a goal. This process
lifts both permanent color and semi-permanent color by @2 shades, despite the timing of
color application. So far, applying semi color over the BKT renders the color temporary, and
inconsistent.....these are the things we've noticed so far. There will be more issues as time
goes on, we presume.
3.Cost. We are still determining price. All salons price differently. Greater cost NEVER
guarantees greater results. Charging the same overall price for BKT as TR is unethical, in our
opinion since BKT requires less time/skill/product. With color, if you apply it unevely,
process it incorrectly, etc...you have bad results in more ways than one. Same with TR.
There are more variables with color and TR, than with BKT. There is no mystery with BKT,
and a person would have to be totally inept to incorrectly perform a BKT service.
4.Offering the BKT at our salon. Because of 2 personal issues, we may not be capable of
offering this service, in the very near future.
An issue that we are answering the most for people is in regards to the purpose of the
formaldehyde. Formaldehyde, like many other substances, can act as both a preservative
and an active ingredient. Keratin, by itself, can not stick to hair semi-permanently. Even the
Tanagra system coats the hair after it's been proteinated, with a plastic layer. This is because
the protein would wash out immediately. The idea is not new. The difference is that the
BKT uses a popular mixture of Propylene Glycol and Formaldehyde(same as Nylon, Teflon...)
to create a polymer that effectively coats and straightens the hair. Think "permanent press
clothing". Fibers are coated and set in a form. However, the BKT alters artificial color and
that is not a good sign. The BKT is doing something internally, despite the fact that their
websight says that NO damage is done to the hair. Any sort of action that would alter
artificial color, essentially damages something. We have noticed that the color changes once
the hair is heated to 450 degrees. The more it's heated, the lighter it goes. I am not a
colorist. My knowledge of color molecules is zero. During the bond breaking stage of TR,
the artificial color is also lightened.(Liscio's neutralizer does not lighten hair, where as other
treatments still use hydrogen peroxide, which do). This is a serious issue. With TR, it is
assumed that the act of curl-bond breaking is what alters the color. With BKT, there is
supposed to be no curl-bond breaking. If curl-bond breaking is happening, and the
treatment is not permanent, then the reverted curl will have to be reprocessed everytime it
reverts. This will cause very serious long term damage on long hair. We choose to see the
long term results before making a final decision on this.
We are also experimenting with the proper timing of color and BKT, to insure best
results..but the only way we will know is by our own experimentation and observation. Not
by second hand information.
None of the above issues are a deal breaker. However, if we are asked to make a statement
regarding a detail or issue, we can only offer what we have seen personally. The
manufacturers do not offer pics realistically showing treated hair. No one is offering pics of
the hair after the first wash, 4 days later. They do not offer pics of a head of hair reverted
back to it's natural state, after a BKT. They did admit that the treatment lightens the hair by
@2 shades, but we were not warned of that before we treated a head of colord hair. So, you
can see why it would be very premature to make definite statements regarding anything
based on short term results. It's very frustrating for a stylist to not have concrete facts. But
instead of fronting like we do, we are simply stating what we've seen.
This system fills a very needed niche, and the good results we've had have been very
impressive so far. If there is no long term damage, then this treatment will be the next huge
wave, with many other companies developing similar products and maybe even improving on
the technology. I'd like to see the fume issue resolved. We are excited about this technology
and are finding it hard not to jump the gun in promoting it. We currently have it on our
"specials" page only, and when potential clients inquire about it, we tell them the bottom
line..it's still in our experimental phase. Most people don't seem to care.
I emailed Denise the before and afters I had, @ a month ago and said that she could post
them on the Lamas board if she'd like since I'm unable to do that. She may not have gotten
Hope that clears up this line of posting.
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