A Guide to TR - by Vincent J Scotto
 
A Guide to TR
by Vincent J. Scotto, LamasBeauty Contributor
 

The Steps Of The Process

As a nationally renowned master hairstylist and colorist, Vincent J has devoted the past 23 years to perfecting the art of hair design. He has devoted his career to defining that which is truly beautiful in each of us.

Educated in New York working with some of Europe's most recognized design teams, Vincent J takes a holistic approach to hairstyling and has developed a personal design style allowing him to create looks that reflect a person's true inner and outer self.

A Guide to TR - by  Vicent J Scotto

MAKING THE DECISION TO THERMAL RECONDITION

Thermal Reconditioning is a chemical process that permanently alters the internal structure of the hair shaft rendering it totally straight. It will also remove a great deal of the fullness and the body from the hair giving it a sleeker look.

QUESTIONS TO ASK THE TECHNICIAN

WHAT TYPE OF TRAINING HAVE YOU RECEIVED ?
this question will help to aquaint you with the skill level of the technician who will be performing your TR... Some systems require you to take a one day seminar in order for you to use their product, others provide a video demonstration...many salons specializing in TR offer an inhouse training program where part of the staff will take advanced courses at one of the training centers and then teach the rest of the staff...In a salon like this there is usually a lot of interaction between stylists and a few techs might do your consulation.
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN PERFORMING THERMAL RECONDITIONING?
experience is the key to this process... as with anything the more case studies you see the better you become...you learn what the hair can and can not do...time is not the only factor to consider in this equation... a technician working in a salon specializing in Thermal Reconditiong might see 20-30 clients a week (performing 5-7 personally)...At the end of 2 months they will have seen 160-240 thermals and performed 40-56 systems while other salons who have been doing the process for a year may only see 2-3 clients a month.
WHICH SYSTEM/SYSTEMS DO YOU USE AND WHY?
there are a variety of systems available today to choose from and the purpose of this question is primarily to find out the technicians knowledge base concerning TR...most technicians today are implementing numerous sytems in the salon in order to better serve the needs of the clients...this along with the skill of the person performing the Thermal Reconditioning are the two most important questions to consider when making your decision.
HOW LONG SHOULD I EXPECT TO BE IN THE SALON?
the average process will take an average of 5-7 hours to complete so you will need to block out an entire day for the process.
WHAT IS THE COST?
prices vary GREATLY when it comes to Thermal Reconditioning...it seems that a running average is from $400-$600 for most salons in the country ... you may find salons much lower or higher...price is not an indication of skill when it comes to TR although I would give pause to salons that are much lower than the national average (There are some salons in major cities that do nothing but TR and utilize a staff of trained assistants and are able to offer high quality Thermals at an extremely low price.These particular salons are not what I am referring to)
WHAT TYPE OF MAINTENANCE WILL BE REQUIRED AT HOME?
some systems will leave your hair silky straight with little to no work required at home while others will remove a percentage of the curl from your hair and you will need to blow dry and iron using special blowdryer and irons to achieve a sleek look at home...Be clear as to what will be expected as to the at home care...WILL I BE ABLE TO WASH AND WEAR?...WILL I HAVE TO BLOW DRY?...WILL I HAVE TO USE AN IRON?... getting a direct answer to question will avoid any misunderstandings after the process has been performed.
HOW OFTEN WILL I NEED TO RETOUCH THE NEW GROWTH?
most clients will not need to retouch a TR for at least 6-9 months...this can vary depending on how quickly your hair grows and how curly it is at the root area...clients with very curly hair close to the scalp may need to touch up sooner than 6 months while a client whose curl starts further away from the scalp may not need a touchup for 9 months to a year...the first interval is going to be an educated estimate...a rule of thumb is the closer to your scalp the curl starts the sooner you may need a touchup.
WILL REPEATED TOUCHUPS DAMAGE MY HAIR?
a TR touchup requires great skill , much more than the initial process to insure that the hair is properly protected and conditioned ...this would be a good time to find out if your technician is familiar with the process and what steps they take to protect your hair...Repeated Thermals should leave your hair in better shape than before the process due to the intense conditioning the ends should be receiving...no softening chemicals should ever come in contact with previously TRed hair.
WILL I BE ABLE TO COLOR MY HAIR AFTER TR?
after a period of two weeks it is safe to have your hair colored again... If you are coloring your hair at home it is advisable to have your hair professionally colored for the first touchup after your thermal... special precautions will need to be taken for the first few times...it is best for a protein treatment to be applied to the hair before color to even out the porosity and insure great results...if your hair is highlighted you will need to switch from using bleach to either a high lift tint or a no ammonia lifting agent .
IF I CHOOSE TO GROW OUT MY TR WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS?
there is a process similar in application to a perm where the curl is put back into the previously TRed hair in order to balance the look as the new hair grows out....Much milder chemicals are used and the conditioning is very important during this process to make sure that the hair does not become dry and brittle...THIS IS NOT A REGULAR PERM...find out if your stylist is familiar with this process in case you want to go back to natural...It is usually best to wait at least 3 months after your Tr before attempting to reverse the process...this will allow enough of the natural wave to return so the technician will be able to match your wave pattern.
WHAT IS YOUR POLICY REGARDING ANY CHALLENGES AFTER THE SERVICE?
hopefully there will be no problem but it is best to be clear on this point..Thermal Reconditiong is a very expensive procedure and you need to know the salons policy on handling any challenges after the service ...If a spot is wavy will they redo it...If the hair is dry will they condition for you...most salons will want their work to be the very best and will be happy to help out.

HAIR HISTORY TO PROVIDE
  • ARE THERE ANY PREVIOUS RELAXERS ON YOUR HAIR?
    this is probably the most important information that you will need to provide your technician...it does not matter if it worked or not...all that matters if you have had a relaxer in the past and whether it was a Sodium base or a Thio base...Thermal Reconditioning is a Thio Based relaxer and is compatible with all thio based relaxers...this means that it is safe to have TR over this product...TR is NOT compatable with Sodium Based products and this means it is not safe to have Tr over these relaxers...the results will be extremely dry,damaged and broken hair if TR chemicals come in contact with the hair that has been treated with a sodium relaxer....Very experienced TR techs will be able to process the newgrowth area of a previously sodium relaxed client with great results...the process is very complicated and should only be attempted by at a salon specializing in Thermal Reconditioning...any deviation from the procedure and severe breakage WILL occur.

  • PROVIDE A COLOR HISTORY?
    it is very important that the technician be aware of what type of coloring has been used on your hair and how often...do you color your hair at home or is it professionally done...they will also need to know what processes may have been done that are no longer visible such as blonde highlightes that you may have had covered up 6 months or even a year ago...be as thorough as possible because only with this knowledge will the technician be able to properly protect your hair and adjust the strengths of the lotions during the TR process...this is a great time to ask the technician how they will protect your hair during the process...there are a wide variety of proteins and moisturizers available as well as pretreatments and aftercare treatments...the more detailed they are in their answer the better.

Vincent J possesses 23 years experience and training in hair design and worked under the tutelage of master stylist Nicholas French of the Cobella Hair Team in England as well as Brian Smith of the Ritz Team in Scotland .

He is a member of the prestigious Nation Motion Institute of Hair Design and major motion picture films such as Any Given Sunday, Random Hearts, Wild Things and Holy Man have featured Vincent J's work.

His work has also appeared in national magazines and he currently works with numerous modeling agencies. Additionally, Vincent J was recently interviewed for an upcoming book on Hair and Make up for Teen and Pre-Teen Girls, to be published by Random House.

Vincent J currently works at his own full-service salon:
Vincent J Salon,
3301 NE 33rd Street,
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33308
vincentj@vincentj.com
(954) 556-6601

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