by Barbara Nachman Staff Writer, Jan. 18, 2001

You can take the lady out of the library. But, can you take the library out of the lady? That's the $1 million question, now that Laura Bush is stepping out of the stacks and onto the world stage.

Prim little suits, sensible shoes and highlight-free hair, may be fine and dandy when you're doing the Dewey Decimal thing. But is this a winning wardrobe when dining with the Chiracs in Paris, lunching with the Putins in Moscow, or taking a spot of tea with the Blairs in London?

Of course, in the best of all possible worlds, it wouldn't matter if Laura Bush wore potato sacks and mumus to state dinners and official ceremonies. She would be judged for her intelligence, which is reportedly impressive, her character, which seems unblemished, and the considerable work she's done to eliminate illiteracy.

But, like it or not, "we're in an era of fast first impressions," says Susan Bixler, founder of The Professional Image and author of "Five Steps to Professional Presence."

"It takes only seven seconds for people to form an opinion that's hard to change. And that's not based on good solid information. Not everyone will listen to her, or read what she says, but we will all see her in snapshots."

And this must be a priority, Bixler insists. "Just like the cabinet selections were for her husband."

"I'd really like to get my hands on her," says Betty Halbreich, author of "Secrets of a Fashion Therapist," and founder of the Solutions department at Bergdorf Goodman.

"She does need help. If I had a day with her, she'd have a very good time."

The good news is that Laura is not making any "Katherine Harris mistakes," says cosmetics guru Paula Begoun, referring to the Florida secretary of state, who was vilified for her overdone "Cruella de Vil look."

In fact, all the experts contributing advice for Laura Bush's White House makeover say the new first lady isn't far from looking like a star on the world stage.

Having said all that, however, our makeover panel has a plethora of advice for the new first lady. In fact, they say everything from her eyebrows to her ankles could use some snazzing up.

"She's clearly using shiny eye shadow, and she has to stop that," balks Begoun, whose definitive guide, "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter without Me," has just published its fifth edition.

"I'd send her to Mac, Stilla or Bobbie Brown for matte shadow. Maybe even Tommy Hilfiger because it's cheaper. She looks like she likes to save money, even though she is a multimillionaire."

Halbreich suggests "a touch of wonderful, translucent powder" to counteract the shine of camera lights. And a true red lipstick should replace the muddy reds she's been wearing, adds Begoun.

"And she has to use a lip liner," Begoun insists. "It will make her thin looks seem fuller."

A tinge more blush is also in order, Begoun says, and I'd put highlights in her hair.

In Washington, Nicholson would send the new first lady to Sandra at The Last Tangle.

"And don't tell her what to do," she instructs. "Just say, 'do me.' "

Laura Bush needs updating.

"She doesn't dress badly," allows Nicholson, "but she ends up looking dowdy."

''Matronly'' is another adjective that pops up when discussing Laura's style.

"I would loosen her up a bit, not trendy, but updated," says Halbreich at Bergdorfs.

Those prim, little suits she's been wearing go back to the '50s and early '60s, Halbreich adds.

"They called them 'loving hands at home.' "

"No flair, no line, no look," complains Lamas.

"Who's putting her together? Well, no one."

OK, here matters do become a bit sticky. It seems Laura Bush has been working with Texas dressmaker John Faircloth since 1964. He's the designer who created the periwinkle and charcoal nosegay suit she wore to the victory speech. But not the much maligned lavender plaid number she chose for tea with Hillary.

Women's Wear Daily reports that it's Faircloth who's whipping up the Swarovski crystal beaded red Chantilly lace evening column she'll wear to the inaugural ball on Saturday and the blue wool bouclE tunic, skirt and coat that she'll don for the swearing-in ceremony.

It remains to be seen how these turnouts play out on the world stage. But Lamas thinks Laura would do well to tap into some additional American talent.

"I wouldn't have chosen that for her," says Bixler. "The jacket was too short. The color didn't work. The styling was not becoming. Laura Bush was much more attractive than her outfit."

"The biggest mistake she could make is ordering more of those suits," Halbreich says.

Bixler suggest brighter colors and longer jackets.

And sensible shoes are fine for women who need to make tracks, says Halbreich. "But you can be too sensible."

"She has enormous potential," adds Halbreich. "It's the little touches that make all the difference."

Halbreich would lower the vamp on Laura's shoes to give them pizazz; shorten her skirts an inch or two; and put her in sheer stockings.

It may seem unfair that women take all the heat for sartorial slip-ups. It's not that men are immune to wardrobe and grooming gaffes, but most escape criticism by following the safe and sure dark suit-light shirt uniform.

A button more or less on the jacket, or an inch more or less in a tie, aren't going to land them on Mr. Blackwell's worst-dressed list.

But, it's the sheer wealth of choices that often trip up women in the spotlight.

And nobody knows that better than Laura's predecessor. Before zeroing in on her highlighted hair and signature black pant suits with brightly colored blouses, Hillary did the purple hat fiasco, the khaki green ball gown goof, the head band horror show, and the easter egg suits, to name just a few. Maybe it did take her eight years, but she finally got it right. (Except for the teal blue number she wore to her swearing-in ceremony. "It has to be burned," Halbreich says.")

Now, it's Laura's turn.

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