Beet Extract: An extract used for its reddish color.

Bentonite (also known as Kaolin): Also known as "china clay". Generally, these clays are used in facial masks to absorb excess facial oil. Although, it can dry-out the skin if used too often, and in some cases it may even clog the pores.

Benzophenone-3: An organic benzophen derived sunscreen that is active in both UV-B and UV-A spectrums. Used in conjunction with a second sunscreen to obtain a SPF higher than 8.

Benzothonium Chloride: A salt derivative that serves as an antiseptic (a substance/property that stops the growth of bacteria) and a germicide (a substance/property that stops the growth of germs).

Benzoyl Peroxide: An oxygen-releasing chemical that causes drying, peeling and antibacterial action on the skin. The #1 topical treatment for acne lesions. The release of oxygen is important to combat the anaerobic bacteria present in the acne-affected follicles. The peeling and drying effects peel the acne pustules (vesicles filled with pus) and open up the comedones (non-inflammatory acne lesions, i.e. black heads or white heads).

Bergamot: An extract from the rind of the bergamot orange. It contains antiseptic and antibacterial properties. It is also contains toning, deodorizing, and fragrant properties.

Beta Carotene: An anti-oxidant (Vitamin A – retinol). When applies topically it helps protect the skin from the effects of free radicals.

Beta Hydroxy Acid: An exfoliating agent with a smaller molecule size than the alpha hydroxy. Used to exfoliate (removes dead skin layers) and renews cells. Beta Hydroxy Acid also plumps out finer wrinkles like the AHAs. Good for acne-prone or sensitive skin. Caution: May cause sun sensitivity

Beta Glucan: This yeast extract works with a sugar protein called mannoprotein to penetrate the epidermis and stimulate and strengthen the immune system.

BHT: (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) An antioxidant and preservative used to prevent oils from turning rancid.

Bioecolia: A natural sugar complex that inhibits the growth of bacteria.

Bioflavonoids: (Vitamin P - Hesperidin, Rutin & Qercetin) Bioflavonoids such as Quercetin, Rutin, and Hesperidin are vital in their ability to increase the strength of the capillaries (blood vessels) and to regulate their permeability. They assist Vitamin C in keeping collagen, the intercellular "cement" in healthy condition; are essential for the proper absorption and use of vitamin C; prevents Vitamin C from being destroyed in the body by oxidation; beneficial in hypertension; helps hemorrhages and ruptures in the capillaries and connective tissues and builds a protective barrier against infections. Quercetin is a very highly concentrated form of Bioflavonoids derived from citrus fruit. A deficiency in these nutrients may result in varicose veins, a tendency to bruise and bleed easily, and/or the appearance of purplish spots on the skin.

Biomin Aquacinque: An aqueous mixture of five skincare minerals: magnesium, iron, zinc, copper, and silicon (with yeast additive).

Biopsy: The removal of body tissue for study and diagnosis.

Biosaccharide Complex: A carbohydrate complex that acts as an antibacterial skin agent. Further, it may counter the effect of bacterial odors caused by tanning.

Biotin: Known as vitamin H, this part of the vitamin B complex is found in all living cells. Biotin helps convert fats, proteins and carbohydrates into body fuel.

Birch Bark: Used by American Indians, it acts as a tonic, refreshes the skin and has anti-inflammatory qualities.

Bisabolol: A myrrh-type (like an anti-microbial agent) gum resin obtained from African trees. It helps reduce sensitivity and inflammation.

Bismuth Citrate: Hair dyes for scalp only.

Bismuth Oxychloride: May be used in cosmetics intended for use the eye area.

Bitter: A Plant with a sharp taste that enhances digestion and stimulates appetite.

Black Cohosh: An herb that has a powerful action when used as a relaxant and a normalizer of the female reproductive system. It may be used to combat painful or delayed menstruation and ovarian cramps or cramping pain in the womb. It is a natural supplier of estrogen. Black Cohosh is helpful in the treatment of rheumatic pains, rheumatoid arthritis, osteo-arthritis, and muscular and neurological pain.

Black Haw: It is a powerful relaxant and sedative used to combat dysmenorrhoea, false labor pains, and reduce blood pressure in hypertension. It may also be used as an anti-spasmodic, tonic, astringent, and an anti-inflammatory. Helps treat asthma, diarrhea and dysentery, jaundice, heart palpitations, female reproductive disorders and uterine congestion and inflammation.

Blackheads: Known as an open comedone, it is a clogging of the skin's pores, clogged by natural oils and impurities. A blackhead can be characterized as a mixture of dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria exposed to oxygen.

Black Walnut: Used by Asians and American Indians, Black Walnut Bark has been used to expel various kinds of worms; used to kill ringworms and tapeworms.

Bladderwrack: Bladderwrack is useful in the treatment of under active thyroid glands and goiter. This herb may also be useful to combat obesity resulting from thyroid trouble.

Blepharitis: Inflammation of the eyelids.

Blessed Thistle: An herb used to increase and enrich the milk in nursing mothers. It also can be used to increase stomach, small intestine and liver activity.

Bloodroot: Bloodroot’s main use is in the treatment of bronchitis. Bloodroot is used as an emetic and expectorant, and as a relaxant. Because of its relaxant properties it has a role in the treatment of asthma, croup, laryngitis, emphysema and bronchiectasis.

Blotting: A process which removes excess oil or moisture from lipstick or any other creamy makeup adding to the longevity of the product’s external application (“set” for longer wear).

Blue Cohosh: An excellent uterine tonic with other properties similar to that of Black Cohosh. Priest & Priest tell us that it is a "gently diffusive stimulating relaxant, uterine vaso-dilator and anti-spasmodic in all spastic and irritable states. Also See Black Cohosh.

Blue Flag: Blue Flag is used in the treatment of skin diseases, apparently aiding the skin by working through the liver, the main detoxifying organ of the body. It may be used in skin eruptions such as eczema and psoriasis, constipation associated with liver problems or biliousness, chronic hepatitis and rheumatic conditions, scrophulous skin conditions, herpes, eczema, and psoriasis.

Blue Vervain: A medicine useful for spasmodic nervous disorders. It is indicated for some types of petit mal epilepsy (especially if associated with menses), PMS (irritability & anxiety symptoms), and irritability associated with fevers and flu.

Boar Bristle: A bristle commonly used in natural bristle brushes.

Body: The volume or the springiness of hair.

Bois de Rose Oil: An extract from the Rosewood Tree that is used for many skin problems including irritation, dryness, puffiness and congestion.

Boneset: Used as a remedy against influenza symptoms. Boneset may also be used to help clear the upper respiratory tract of mucous congestion.

Borage: An emollient herb that has a cooling and soothing effect.

Borax: Water softener that also acts as a weak antiseptic.

Boric Acid: An inorganic acid used as a mild antiseptic and preservative.

Botanical: Refers to an organic product or ingredient that is plant derived.

Botox: Known as Botulinum Toxin. When used in tiny amounts it can temporarily paralyze a muscle and reduce or eliminate wrinkles or frown lines without harm.

Brassy: Refers to the warm tones associated with hair color, often resulting from chemicals or damage.

Broad-spectrum: A sunscreen property that means it protects against a wide variety of UVA and UVB rays.

Bromelain style='mso-bidi-font-style:italic'>: A proteolytic enzyme (digests proteins) obtained from the pineapple plant. Bromelain hydrolyzes proteins and digests dead cells on the surface of the skin.

Bronzers: Bronzers can be found in powder or cream form and should not be confused with a self-tanner that is not water-soluble. It is a synthetic-tanning product used to make your skin look darker. Unlike self-tanners, which contain Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), this product can be instantly removed with soap and water.

Buchu: Buchu has diuretic and urinary antiseptic actions and is very helpful at reducing urination pain.

Buffer: a pH balanced cleansing solution that is used to stabilize a product’s pH to lengthen the products shelf life and make it gentler on the complexion. It helps improve the look and feel of the skin leaving it shiny and suppler. A buffer is also an extremely fine-grit manicure tool used to shine the surface of the nail.

Bugleweed: Bugleweed improves circulation (helps the vascular system), helps combat symptoms associated with nervousness or nervous disorders, used to treat over active thyroid glands, combat heart palpitations, and reduce shakes (aids the nervous system). It’s actions include: diuretic, peripheral vasoconstrictor, astringent, nervine, anti-tussive, sedative, mild narcotic, and tonic.

Bulla: A blister larger than a pea that is filled with clear fluid.

Burdock: Burdock is used in the treatment of skin conditions that result in dry and scaly skin such as eczema, psoriasis, and dermatitis. It also is used to treat boils, carbuncles, styes and sores. Burdock’s actions include: alternative, diuretic and bitter.

Burdock Extract: A root extract with antibacterial properties. It helps reduce inflammations such as rashes, redness, acne, and eczema, and helps restore skin tone and smoothness. This extract also contains cleansing and astringent properties in the bath or in facial saunas.

Butcher’s Broom: Butcher's broom extract possesses blood vessel narrowing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is used to treat circulatory disorders, hemorrhoidal ailments like bleeding, itching, soreness, and swelling, and may be capable of curing varicose veins, varicose ulcers, and surface veins.

Butylene Glyco: Solvents used to dilute. An organic humectant (promotes the retention of moisture in the skin) similar to propylene glycol.

Butylparaben: An oil-soluble synthetic preservative of the paraben family. Used in non-protein based products.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: An emollient ester derived form coconut oil with good lubricating properties.

Deionized Water: Water purified by removing highly active ions especially positively charged cations like calcium (Ca++) magnesium (MG++) and iron (Fe++) and (Fe+++).

Demand: Term used to describe the effect skin care products have on moisturization. A high demand indicates a need to reapply the product often.

Demineralized Water: Water run through active resin beds to remove metallic ions and filtered through a sub micron filter to remove suspended impurities. See Deionized Water.

Demulcent: Soothing, coating herbs that can protect irritated or inflamed tissue.

Deodorant: A product used to counteract body odors caused sweat. A deodorant containing antiseptic substances to kill bacteria and strong fragrances to mask offensive smells but it should not be confused with antiperspirants that actually inhibits the production of sweat.

Deoxyribonucleic acid: See DNA.

Depilate: Removal of hair on the surface of the skin. Examples include shaving or the use of depilatory creams.

Depilatory: A depilatory is a chemical sulfide that dissolves hair in the follicle. It also removes the outermost cells of the epidermis skin layer that leaves skin smoother. It has a more lasting effect than shaving (slower hair regrowth).

Dermabrasion: A procedure in which the skin is sanded to improve its texture. Microdermabrasion uses a type of sand to abrade the skin, usually done by an esthetician or a cosmetic doctor.

Dermal: Related to skin.

Dermal Papilla: Projection from the dermis that extends upward into the epidermis. The Dermal Papilla helps anchor the epidermis and dermis.

Dermatitis: Any inflammation of the skin. The reason may be a bacterium, fungus, or parasite; it can also be a foreign substance like an allergen. See Contact Dermatitis.

Dermatology: The study of the skin, its structures, functions, and diseases.

Dermatologist: A physician who specializes in the study of the skin, its structures, functions, and diseases (dermatology).

Dermatosis: A non-specific term used to denote any skin disease.

Dermis: The lower layers of the skin; the layers of skin beneath the epidermis.

Desquamation: The sloughing of dead corneocytes (cells located in the epidermis that are packed with fibrous protein called Keratin) from the horny cell layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum). The final stage in the ongoing cycle of skin cell birth, maturation, and death.

Detoxification: Process of ridding the body of toxins.

DHA: See Dihydroxyacetone.

Diaphoretic: Herb and/or substance that can assist in increasing capillary activity and sweating, which helps to release body toxins.

Diatomaceous Earth: A porous and pure form of silica formed from the fossil remains of algae. This form of each has great absorption power and can absorb up to four times its own weight in water. In masques it sets and gels on the skin’s surface.

Diazolidinyl: Cosmetic Preservative.

Dicaprate: Emulsifier (a thickening agent that helps bind different ingredients together).

Dicaprylate: Emulsifier (a thickening agent that helps bind different ingredients together).

Dicetyldimonium Chloride: A quaternary ammonium salt. Used often as a conditioning agent, compatible with surfactants and often used in shampoos.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA): Obtained from glycerol, used to artificially tan skin. Reacts with amino acids in skin to provide a natural looking suntanned appearance. Usually derived from sugar cane, it causes the surface layer of the skin to oxidize.

Dilation: Enlargement of a cavity, canal, blood vessel, or opening.

Dimethicone: An organic silicone, used as a skin protectant and moisturizer. Well tolerated by even the most sensitive skins, dimethicone has a filming action on the skin surface which helps slow down moisture loss and further helps smooth fine, dry lines.

Dimethicone Copolyol: A Complex of natural silica that acts as a spreading agent for easy product application and also functions as a moisturizer. 

Dimethyl Lauramine Isostearate: Conditioning and thickening agent.

Dimethylol Dimethyl: See DMDM.

Dimethyl Stearamine: Conditioning and thickening agent.

Disinfectant: A product or ingredient that can help destroy microorganisms that cause infection.

Disodium Oleamide MEA-Sulfosuccinate: A wax-like solid surfactant (mixing agent) used as a solubilizer and wetting agent in bath preparations and lotions.

Diuretic: Something that can increase urine flow.

DL-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate: Vitamin E acetate. See Vitamin E.

DMDM: (Dimethylol Dimethyl) Used with hydantoin to form a preservative. Slowly releases formaldehyde to give bactericidal properties to lotions.

DMDM Hydantoin: Preservative, antimicrobial to fight bacteria. 

DNA: The principle carrier or genetic information in all organisms.

DNA Enzyme Complex: Complex that has been bioengineered to supply the body with moisture and to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Dong Quai: An herb used to treat symptoms associated with menopause and menstrual irregularity.

Double Process: A two-step hair coloring process; first the hair is lightened and second the new color is added.

Draining Sinus: An elongated, serious acne lesion that tunnels through the skin.

Draize test: An animal test used to determine the effects of different substances on the eye.

Dulse: Dried sea-plant powder added to water that helps rid the skin of toxins and boosts circulation.

Dystrophy: A condition in which there has been a malformation through an error.

Elasticity: The ability of hair or skin to stretch without breaking/morphing and then return to their original shape.

Elastin: This protein is responsible for the elasticity of body tissues, more specifically, the skin. An elastin is also a surface protective agent used in cosmetics to alleviate the effects of dry skin

Elder Flower: Used in eye and skin creams for its astringent (oil and/or water removal) properties. It is an excellent skin softener. It is used in many bath/facial blends and in ointments for dry to normal skin.

Elecampane: Elecampane is a specific for irritating bronchial coughs, especially in children. It may be used in asthma and bronchitis asthma. Elecampane is helpful as an expectorant, anti-tussive, diaphoretic, hepatic, and anti-microbial. Go to the Herbal Dictionary and look up Elecampane.

Electrolysis: The use of electricity to dissolve/destroy the hair’s roots. This is a permanent means of ridding unwanted hair.

Emollient: An externally applied soothing herb or agent that acts to smooth and soften the skin, and also reduces inflammation.

Emulsifier: A thickening agent and/or binding agent added to products to change their physical composition (joins two or more ingredients together). For example, it can turn a lotion into a cream.

Emulsion: A suspension of tiny globules of one liquid in a second liquid (separation results - ingredients will not mix). An example would be oil and vinegar.

Enamel: Another name for nail polish.

Endogenous: Originating in or produced by the body.

Enteric-coated: A coating applied to tablets or capsules that prevents the release and absorption of the active ingredients within the coating until they reach the intestines.

Enzyme: A class of protein (catalyst) produced by a living organism that is capable of accelerating or producing biochemical changes.

Epidermabrasion: A skin peel in which the outermost layers of the skin (epidermal skin layers) are sloughed off (sloughed: to become shed or cast off; to separate in the form of dead tissue from living tissue).

Epidermis: The uppermost or outer layers of the skin.

Epilate: The removal of hair beneath the skin’s surface. Examples include using wax or electrolysis. This method produces longer lasting results.

Epithelium: Cellular covering of internal and external body surfaces.

Epsom Salts: Salts that are often applied to water that can soothe tired muscles and soften the skin.

Ergocalciferol: Known as Vitamin D when used in food products or skincare lotions.

Erosion: A depressed skin lesion that is wider than a fissure but not as deep.

Erythema: Inflammatory redness of the skin. It can be the initial state of contact dermatitis.

Erythromycin: An antibiotic used in both oral and topical forms to treat acne.

Erythrosine: The common name of FD&C Red No. 3

Essence: The fragrant oil extracted from a plant or herb.

Essential Oil: The essence of a plant, removed by compressing, steaming, dissolving or distilling. These oils produce the strongest odors, flavors, or medicinal properties when used in a product.

Esters: Compounds formed by reactions of organic acids with alcohol's. The esters used in cosmetics are usually emollients (skin soothers and softeners) and are designed to spread easily and penetrate our skin effectively. They tend to resist rancidity better than natural oils, thus their common use in products.

Esthetician: A beauty specialist.

Ethanol: An Alcohol solvent used to dilute.

Ethoxydiglycol: Viscosity decreasing agent (an agent that thins a product and allows it to flow more easily).

Ethyl Alcohol: Acts as a fat solvent in oils and lotions.

Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid: See EDTA.

Ethyl Ester PVM/MA Copolymer: Humidity resistant, non - tacky polymer.

Ethylparaben: A microbial preservative.

Eucalyptus: Eucalyptus oil has blood stimulation properties (A vaso-dilator that improves blood circulation), beneficial for the treatment of hair loss. It has antiseptic, cooling and stimulating properties.

Eucalyptus Oil: See Eucalyptus.

Euphrasia: Aids in reducing skin blemishes.

Evening Primrose Oil: Essential fatty acid oil, rich in gamma-linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids. Also known as Vitamin F. It is hydrating to the skin; it helps restore the moisture and lipid balance to dry skin conditions.

Excoriation: Scratch; linear break in the skin surface. Often covered with blood or crust.

Exempt Color Additives: Colors derived primarily from plant, animal and mineral (other than coal and petroleum) sources that are exempt from FDA certification.

Exfoliant: An ingredient or cosmetic tool used to help slough away the dead skin cells.

Exfoliating: A process of removing the top dead skin layers to reveal healthier, newer skin underneath.

Expectorant: A group of substances used to promote the coughing up of phlegm in the throat and lungs.

Ext. D&C: A prefix designating that a certifiable color may be used only in externally applied drugs and cosmetics.

Extension: Hair extensions are pieces of real or synthetic weaves used to achieve greater length and/or fullness. Nail extensions are synthetic additions that add length to the natural nail, such as nail tips, wraps, gels, and sculptured acrylic nails.

Extract: An herbal concentrate produced by separating the essential or active part of an herb into a solvent material.

Eyebright: Eyebright is an excellent remedy for the problems of mucous membranes. The combination of anti-inflammatory and astringent properties makes it relevant in many conditions. Used internally it is a powerful anti-catarrhal and thus may be used in nasal catarrh, sinusitis and other congestive states. It is best known for its use in conditions of the eye, where it is helpful in acute or chronic inflammations, stinging and weeping eyes as well as over-sensitivity to light.

Fissure: A thin but deep linear split (cleft or a groove). A skin fissure is a deep split in the epidermis that extends into the dermis. Severe dry skin can have fissures.

Flatus: Intestinal or stomach gas.

Flavonoids: See Bioflavonoids.

Folic Acid: (Vitamin B9) Necessary for DNA & RNA synthesis. It is essential for the growth and reproduction of all body cells.

Folate: (Vitamin B9) See Folic Acid.

Follicle: A pore in the skin from which a hair grows.

Fluorination: A method of manipulating the steroid molecule by adding a fluorine ion to increase potency.

Flushing: Flushing is redness in the face, neck or chest caused by a substance, physical stimulus or environment. It is a dilatation of the small blood vessels in the skin.

Folliculitis: Infection of the hair follicles.

Follicle: A small anatomical sac, cavity, or deep narrow-mouthed depression. In hair a follicle is a stratum corneum lined sac that extends into the dermis and contains the hair bulb. It is also a fluid-filled sac in the ovary that releases an egg at ovulation.

Fragrance: Any natural or synthetic substance or substances use solely to impart a sweet or pleasant smell (odor) to a cosmetic product.

Fragrance-Free: Most products will still contain small traces of fragrance to mask unpleasant odors.

Free Radicals: Highly reactive or unstable molecules and atoms that cause aging and degenerative diseases. These free radicals often result from ozone, cigarette smoke, herbicides and pesticides, solvents, petrochemicals, drugs, sunshine, X-rays and other foreign body substances.

Free Radical Scavengers: Naturally derived anti-oxidants that counteract/influence the affect of free radicals.

Freezing Spray: A hairspray with the firmest hold used to maintain the style, shape and hold of hair.

Fringetree Bark: An herb used a wide range of liver problems. It is a specific for the treatment of gall-bladder inflammation and a valuable part of treating gallstones. Because of its benefits on liver problems it is useful in many other wider body treatments. Further, its action of releasing bile makes it a gentle and effective laxative. Actions include: hepatic, cholagogue, alternative, diuretic, tonic, antemetic, and laxative.

Fruit acid: Fruit acid (citric acid; glycolic acid) has astringent, antioxidant and preservative actions.

Fungicidal: An agent that kills fungal organisms that cause fungal infections. The most common are athlete’s foot and thrush.

Fungus: A general term used to denote a class of microbes. A fungus is a type of organism responsible for many infections. They can cause infections of the skin, mouth and other body areas as well as some rare but serious infections throughout the body.

Ginseng: Ginseng is considered a tonic and is most widely known as an energy booster. It helps fight stress and stimulates RNA & DNA activity in the cells.

Glabella: The space/area between the eyebrows.

Gloss: A smooth surface polish to give a superficial luster; to make shine.

Glucagon:   A hormone produced by the alpha cells of the pancreas that increases the release of sugar by the liver. Too much sugar may lead to hyperglycemic. Insulin counters the effect of too much body sugar production by increasing absorption of sugar by the body’s tissue, in effect drawing the excess sugar from out of the blood.

Glaucoma: A condition where high fluid pressure in the eye causes damage.

Glucose Tyrosinate: A source of soluble tyrosine, this gives lotion a characteristic tan color. The glucose compound of tyrosine encapsulated in a liposome base that helps provide a deeper darker tanning process.

Glycereth: Polyethylene glycol ester of glycerin. An emollient (skin smoothener and softener).

Glycereth 26: Polyethylene glycol ester of glycerin with an average ethoxylation value of 26. An emollient (skin smoothener and softener).

Glycerin: A humectant (draws moisture from the air to moisturize the skin) that absorbs moisture from the air to keep hair and skin moist. It is also used as an emollient (skin smoothener and softener), lubricant (skin lubricator that helps prevents moisture loss), emulsifier (thickener) and diluting agent in cosmetics.  

Glyceryl Monostearate: A wax like solid emollient (skin smoothener and softener), emulsifier (thickener) derived from natural stearic acid and glycerin; also pearlescent (emitting or reflecting light readily or in large amounts, rainbow like colors) agent.   A wax like solid used as an emulsifying and thickening agent.

Glyceryl Stearate: A monoester of glycerin and stearic acid. An emollient and emulsifier. See Glyceryl Monostearate.

Glycine: A non-essential amino acid that helps trigger the release of oxygen to the energy requiring cell-making process. Glycine aids in the synthesis of non essential amino acids in the body. Glycine is an amino acids that can spare glucose for energy by improving glycogen storage. Glycine is also readily converted into Creatine, which is utilized to make RNA and DNA.

Glycolic acid: Hydroxyacetic acid, found in young plants and green fruits. This acid helps reduce the build up of excess dead skin cells. Mainly derived from sugar cane juice, it is also used to adjust the pH in products.

Glycolic peel: A glycolic peal is used to help peel or exfoliate the skin.

Glycolipids: A plant-derived mixture of glycoceramides that help promote a stronger, healthier skin barrier.   They are able to stabilize creams and lotions without irritating surfactants. They form rich gels, solubilize fats in alcoholic preparations, prevent fat crystallization or bind water in lipsticks and make-up formulations. Glycolipids enhance the bioavailability of other active ingredients. They are hydrating, restructuring, film forming, smoothing and refatting ingredients. Phospholipids and Glycolipids give a very rich skin feel to cosmetics. Therefore these membrane lipids are the best natural and biological solution for emulsions and modern delivery systems in cosmetics.

Glycol Stearate: The monoester of ethylene glycol and stearic acid. An emollient and an emulsifier used in lotions and shampoos to achieve a pearling effect. See Glyceryl Monostearate.

Glycosaminoglycans: (GAG’s) The skin is composed of two layers, epidermis and dermis. The epidermis consists of many layers of dead skin, which are supported by the dermis. The dermis is made up of a network of collagen fibers and elastin, surrounded by a gel-like substance called the Ground substance. The ground substance is composed glycosaminoglycans (formerly called mucopolysaccharides), non-collagen proteins and water. Glycosaminoglycans promote the ability of collagen fibers to retain water and bind moisture into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The addition of glycosaminoglycans results in skin that has more moisture and increased flexibility.

Glycoside: A plant compound containing one or more alcohols or sugars and a biologically active compound. The sugar part is called a glycone; the other stuff is called an aglycone.

Golden Rod: Golden Rod is used for upper respiratory catarrh, acute or chronic. It may be used in the treatment of influenza, dyspepsia, systitis, urethritis, and wound healing. As a gargle it can be used in laryngitis and pharyngitis. Its actions include: anti-catarrhal, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, astringent, diaphoretic, carminative, and diuretic.

Golden Seal: Golden Seal has tonic effects and thus helps the mucous membranes of the body. In this way it may help in all-digestive problems, from peptic ulcers to colitis. As a bitter it helps stimulate appetite, and its alkaloids help stimulate bile production and secretion. Further, it is useful for all catarrhal conditions, especially sinus ones and has positive anti-microbial properties. Golden seal has the following actions: bitter, hepatic, alterative, anti-catarrhal, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, astringent, laxative, expectorant, emmenagogue, and oxytocic.

Grapefruit Oil: Juice from the grapefruit peel. A yellowish liquid used for its cooling and anti-inflammatory properties.

Grape Seed Extract: An excellent anti-oxidant and rich source of proanthocyanidins, a flavenoid type molecule that protects capillary walls and inhibits enzymes that breaks down collagen and elastin. Grape Seed extract helps Vitamin C enter the body's cells, thus strengthening the cell membranes, and protecting the cells from oxidative damage. Research has shown that proanthocyanidins (bioflavonoids) serve as an anti-inflammatory, antihistamines, antiallergenic, and as major free radical scavengers. The proanthocyandins possess up to 50 times stronger antioxidant activity than Vitamin C&E, Beta-Carotene or Selenium. Proanthocyanidins also help promote tissue elasticity, help heal injuries, reduce swelling and edema, restore collagen and improve peripheral circulation. Proanthocyanidins also prevent bruising, strengthen weak blood vessels, protect against atherosclerosis, and reduce histamine production.

Grape seed oil: Has a moisturizing and nourishing property due to its high linoleic acid content. See Grape Seed Extract.

Grape skin Extract: The extract of the pulp can be used as a coloring.

Gravel Root: Gravel Root is used primarily for kidney stones or gravel. It’s also in beneficial in treating urinary infections such as cystitis and urethritis. Its actions include: diuretic, anti-lithic and anti-rheumatic.

Green Clay: Highly effective cosmetic clay used for its sterilizing and purifying qualities. Produces a cooling effect on the skin, constricts follicles and deep cleanses the epidermis. It is very absorbent and cleansing to the skin sebum. It detoxifies and exfoliates.

Green Tea: Japanese Green Tea contains two active groups of chemicals known as xanthines (ingredients that suppress inflammation and irritation and reduce cellulite) and polyphenols or catechins (contain powerful antioxidant properties that are 20 times stronger the Vitamin E).

Grindelia: Grindelia acts to relax and smooth muscles and heart muscles. It may be used in asthma, bronchitis, whooping cough and upper respiratory catarrh. Because of the relaxing effect on the heart and pulse rate, there may be a reduction in blood pressure. Externally it may be applied to treat poison ivy. Its actions include: anti-spasmodic, expectorant, and hypotensive.

Ground Substance: Viscous elastic gel which fills in the spaces between the collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis.

G-String: A panty with a very thin (string like) band of fabric in the back.

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: Naturally derived from Guar tree, it is a cationic conditioning agent used frequently in shampoos.

Guttate: Having or resembling drops.

Guttate psoriasis: A type of psoriasis. In guttate psoriasis there are numerous small lesions that look like little drops scattered across the skin.

Homeopathy: A method of treating disease with naturally occurring substances. The art of curing through the use of minute doses of a curative which is likely to be the same curative which, when taken in greater quantities, causes the disease or similar symptoms.  

Honey: Humectant for skin and hair (Helps the skin or hair attract and retain moisture). A mixture of plant nectar and bee enzymes containing carbohydrates, b-complex vitamins as well as vitamins C, D, and E, with some minerals.

Hops: Hops are used as relaxants upon the central nervous system, in the treatment of Insomnia, to ease tension and anxiety, and may help in cases of a headache and possibly indigestion. Externally the antiseptic action is utilized for the treatment of ulcers. Hops were at one time used as a sedative and as an anti-inflammatory extract known to have a mild firming action. It is also known as an aromatic bitter with mild digestive qualities, making it useful in anxious individuals who have a tendency toward intestinal gas Caution: Do not use in cases with marked depression. Its actions include: sedative, hypnotic, antimicrobial, anti-spasmodic, and astringent.

Hops Extract: See Hops.

Horse Chestnut: Horse Chestnut’s actions are astringent and anti-inflammatory. It is used to affect the circulatory system where it seems to increase the strength and tone of veins. Its internal used to help in treatment of phlebitis, inflammation in the veins, varicosity and hemorrhoids. Externally it may be used as a lotion for the same conditions as well as for leg ulcers. The bark has tonic, narcotic and febrifuge properties and is used in intermittent fevers.

Horehound: Horehound root is soothing to the respiratory system and is a natural expectorant. This herb has been shown effective when used as a diaphoretic, diuretic, expectorant, stimulant, and tonic. Horehound is, above all, a remedy for coughing and bronchial problems. It has shown positive results in treating nervous heart conditions, and to calm overall heart action.

Hormone: A chemical messenger released into the bloodstream to deliver instructions to organs and tissues. The corticosteroids are hormones.

Horsetail: See Horsetail Extract.

Horsetail Extract: An extract used medicinally to reduce body water and as an astringent. It helps heal wounds and speeds the healing of the skin and has a firming and tightening action on the skin. It is beneficial for the treatment of acne because of its high silica content providing texture. Its actions include: astringent, diuretic, and vulnerary.

Hot Action Complex: Ingredients that work deep within the epidermis to produce a warming and reddening effect.

Humectant: An ingredient in skin or hair products that draws moisture from the air to moisturize the skin and also promotes the retention of moisture in the skin, i.e. glycerin.

Hyaluronic Acid: This is an acid that occurs naturally in the skin and holds many times more moisture than even the Collagen protein molecule. Essential it binds and retains essential moisture in the skin layers and reduces fine lines caused by dehydration.

Hydrangea: Hydrangea's greatest use is in the treatment of inflamed or enlarged prostrate glands. It may also be used for urinary stones or gravel associated with infections in the bladder. Its actions include: diuretic, cathartic, tonic, sialagogue and antilithic.

Hydrate: To add moisture to the skin

Hydration: Water content.

Hydrocortisone: A corticosteroid produced by the adrenal glands or synthetically. Hydrocortisone is topically active.

Hydrocotyl Extract: Used as a diuretic, aperient or alterative tonic to combat fever and bowel complaints. It is also a noted remedy for leprosy, rheumatism and ichthyosis; employed as a poultice for syphilitic ulcers. In small doses it acts as a stimulant, in large doses as a narcotic, causing stupor and headache and with some people vertigo and coma. Used in India to combat excessively dry skin. Recent studies indicate it has a strong anti-inflammatory agent, effective in the treatment of wounds, ulcers and lymphatic edema. Particularly suited to the fragile skin around the eyes, hydrocotyl extract assists in reducing inflammation and sensitivity of the skin.

Hydrogenated Soybean Oil: An emollient used to smooth and soften that consists essentially of oleic, linolenic and saturated acids.

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil: Increases the stability of the oil while retaining the protective smoothening and softening properties (emolliency).

Hydro-lipid: The skin's balance of water and oil. If this balance is upset, irritation and loss of skin elasticity occur.

Hydrolyzed Animal Collagen: Animal derived collagen that gives body to the hair and helps protect it from sun, wind and weather damage. It leaves a protective emollient film.

Hydrolyzed Keratin: Protein for the hair derived from non-animal sources. style="mso-spacerun: yes"> 

Hydrolyzed Whole Wheat Protein: A non-animal, water-soluble protein derived from whole wheat. The two major proteins in whole wheat are glutenin and gliadin, which are both rich in the amino acid called cystine, an important sulfur containing amino acid with moisturizing properties. These proteins moisturize and smooth the skin’s surface, helping to bind moisture to the stratum corneum (acts as an emollient).

Hydrophilic: Having an attraction for water molecules.

Hydroxyproline: Hydroxyproline is referred to as "Hyp". This protein acts as universal biological glue. The primary amino acid in collagen is L-hydroxyproline, a non-essential amino acid. Hydroxproline plays a major role in the manufacture of collagen, connective tissue, skin, ligaments, tendons, bones and cartilage. Hydroxyproline is also necessary in Vitamin D assimilation and Vitamin D is essential in proper calcium absorption.

Hydroquinone: A bleaching agent used in skin preparations.

Hydroxyethyl Cellulose: A naturally derived polymer that is used as a thickener in creams and lotions and helps modify viscosity and form gels with water-soluble ingredients. Helps protect the skin and makes the skin feel differently.

Hydroxy Propyl Methylcellulose: Fibrous substance derived from plants. Used as thickener. Gives products uniform consistency and body.

Hygroscopic: Capable of absorbing and retaining moisture and used in cosmetics as part of moisturizing ingredients in creams and lotions.

Hyperglycemia:   Elevated blood glucose (sugar) levels, resulting from diabetes, excessive sugar intake or from stimulation and adrenalin. Hypoglycemia is Low blood sugar.

Hyperpigmentation: Darkening of the skin, commonly produced by ultraviolet radiation, which provokes Melanocytes in the skin. Extra areas of melanin in the skin can cause dark, irregular patches to occur. The sun, UVA and UVB rays, x-rays and photosensitizing agents stimulate melanin formation, while vitamin C (ascorbic acid) tends to reduce it. Treatment with steroids is common, as is the use of hydroquinone (a whitening agent).

Hypersensitivity: An overreaction of the immune system to an antigen. It can lead to asthma, hay fever, urticaria and other skin reactions.

Hypertrichosis: Excessive hair growth.

Hypertrophy: Hypertrophy is the enlargement or overgrowth of an organ, part or soft tissues due to an increase in size of its constituent cells.

Hypoallergenic: A term referring to products or ingredients that are less likely to cause allergic reactions (in people prone to allergies) than other products.

Hypodermis: Below the surface of the skin.

Hypoglycemia: Low blood sugar; the opposite of Hyperglycemia.

Hypopigmentation: Diminished pigmentation; the loss of melanin, often due to genetics, skin resurfacing techniques and aging.

Hypotension: Low blood pressure.

Hypothalamus: Part of the brain involved in endocrine mechanisms.

Hyssop: Hyssop is used in coughs, bronchitis, and chronic catarrah. Its diaphoretic properties explain its use in the common cold. As a nervine it may be used in anxiety states, hysteria and petit mal (a form of epilepsy). Its actions include: anti-spasmodic, stimulant, tonic, expectorant, diaphoretic, nervine, anti-inflammatory, carminative, hepatic, and emmenagogue.

In Vitro: From the Latin meaning in the living body. In vitro tests do not involve the use of living vertebrate animals. Note: In vivo studies are conducted using animals.

Iodine: The condition of the hair, skin, & teeth are dependent upon a well-functioning thyroid gland.

Irish Moss: Irish moss is used as a stabilizer in such dairy products as ice creams, sherbets, chocolate milk, yogurt and whipped cream. In its raw form, Irish moss is used as a bulk laxative, which also coats and soothes the entire gastrointestinal tract. In various forms, it alleviates peptic and duodenal ulcers in humans while having no adverse effects on the colon.

Iritis: Inflammation of the iris of the eye.

Iron: Iron is a mineral that occurs in both plant and animal tissue. Its major function is to combine with protein and copper in making hemoglobin. Hemoglobin transports oxygen in the blood from the lungs to the tissues, which need oxygen to maintain basic life functions. Iron builds up the quality of the blood and increases resistance to stress and disease. It is also necessary for the formation of myoglobin, which is found only in muscle tissue. Myoglobin supplies oxygen to muscle cells for use in the chemical reaction that results in muscle contraction. Iron also prevents fatigue and promotes good skin tone.

Iron Oxides: Natural oxides of iron (iron combined with oxygen) varying in color from red to brown, black to orange or yellow, depending on the degree of water added. Inorganic pigments approved for cosmetic use, including the eye area.

Irritant: A substance that consistently and predictably produces an adverse response (such as reddening, swelling, itching, burning, or blistering) in virtually all of the population. Irritants are not to be confused with allergens.

Isobutane: Naturally occurring gas.

Isopropanol: (Isopropyl Alcohol) An organic solvent of alcohol family. Used to solubilize resins and polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissolve the oxidation dyes.

Isopropyl Alcohol: See Isopropanol.

Isopropyl Lanolate: A synthetic moisturizer.

Isopropyl Myristate: An emollient and lubricant that reduces the greasy feel of products by replacing other, oilier ingredients. A synthetic moisturizer.

Isopropyl Palmitate: An ester of palmitic acid from coconut oil used to impart silkiness to the skin and hair. A synthetic moisturizer.

Isotonic: Having the same salinity as body fluids.

Ivy: A mild irritant botanical that has toning and tightening properties. It is believed to stimulate blood circulation to the areas on which it is applied.

Ivy Extract: A natural diuretic and cleansing extract that is well known for its skin firming and tightening actions.

Jujube Fruit: Tests in Russia indicate a very high vitamin C content. The fruit has been used medicinally for millennia by many cultures. One of its most popular uses is as a tea for sore throat. Jujube, in the form of pastes, tablets and syrups is also used as a remedy for throat ailments.

Juniper Berries: The bitter action aids digestion and eases flatulent colic. Externally, it eases pain in the joints or muscles. Juniper berries contain a volatile oil, terpinen-4, that acts as a kidney irritant to stimulate increased kidney filtration and output. For this reason Juniper is commonly utilized as a diuretic to treat conditions involving the kidneys and bladder, to increase urine output, and for relief from symptoms of gout and kidney stones. Its actions include: diuretic, anti-microbial, carminative, and anti-rheumatic. CAUTION: Due to its action on the kidneys, Juniper Berries should be avoided in any kidney disease. It should also be avoided in pregnancy.

Keratinocyte: Epidermal skin cell that makes Keratin and eventually undergoes differentiation to become a dead, flattened cell of the stratum corneum.

Keratitis: Inflammation of the cornea of the eye.

Keratosis: A skin lesion that is abnormally sensitive to the effects of ultraviolet light (sunlight). Usually a discreet slightly raised, red or pink lesion located on a sun-exposed surface. Texture may appear as rough, gritty or scaly.

Keratosis Pilaris: Red and white horny, pointed plugs around the hair follicles of the cheeks and sides of the arms, seen most frequently before puberty, but may be seen with teenage acne.

Keratohyalin Granule: Granule contained in the granular cell layer of the epidermis. Contains the protein filaggrin (a basic protein component of keratohyalin granules of the suprabasal cells of the skin).

Keratolytic: Topical agent that causes keratolysis (peeling of the stratum corneum). See Keratolytic Agents.

Keratolytic Agents: Agents that soften, separate, and cause desquamation of the cornified epithelium or horny layer of skin. They are used to expose mycelia of infecting fungi or to treat corns, warts, and certain other skin diseases.

Ketoconazole: A topical antifungal medication. .

Kiwi Extract: Extract of the tropical kiwi fruit. Natural additive. Kiwifruit is high in vitamin C and a good source of fiber and potassium. Kiwifruit also contain a protein called Actinidin. It is an excellent source of magnesium, vitamin E, and a potent source of antioxidants and amino acids. Kiwifruits is cholesterol free with virtually no fat. Kiwifruit was also found to deliver more folic acid, copper, pantothenic acid, calcium, iron, vitamin B6, phosphorous and vitamin A than most other fruits.

Kojic Acid: Skin-lightening agent. Used to treat Hyperpigmentation.

Kola: See Kola Nut.

Kola Nut: Kola Nut is used as a stimulating tonic and is used to counter fatigue. Kola Nut is also known as Cola Nut and Cola. Kola Nut is the seed kernel of a large African tree grown commercially around the world. Kola Nut is a central nervous system stimulant, antidepressant, diuretic and astringent. Because of its caffeine content, Kola Nut may relieve some migraine headaches. The phenolics and anthrocyanin are likely to provide antioxidant activity. Historical uses of Kola Nut include stimulating a weak heart and treating nervous debility, weakness, and lack of emotion, nervous diarrhea, depression, despondency, brooding, anxiety, and seasickness.

Kukui Nut Oil: Easily absorbed by the skin, it is reported to benefit acne, sunburn, and chapped skin. Kukui Nut Oil is effective for treating and relieving the symptoms of psoriasis, acne, sunburned skin and particularly dry skin. It is a natural source of linoleic and linolenic fatty acids, essential to vibrant, healthy skin. Used effectively for centuries by Hawaiians to protect and heal skin exposed to harsh.

Lavender Extract: Anti-inflammatory and skin soothing agent.

Lavender Flowers: An aromatic that stimulates and cleanses the skin.

Lavender Oil: An antiseptic and anti-inflammatory that is effective in treating acne, dermatitis and oily skin.

Laxative: Promotes bowel movements.

Lecithin: A natural anti-oxidant and emollient mainly derived from common egg yolk or from naturally occurring phospholipids derived from soybeans. Lecithin helps protect the skin, soften the skin and replenish the acid mantle.

Lemon Extract: Lemon extract is refreshing and purifying to the skin. It is extremely active when applied to an oily skin condition. Lemon Extract is a natural purifier, cleanser, astringent, decongestant and tonic. It also can help prevent skin discoloration.

Lemongrass: Used for sheen and cleansing. Also used as an elasticizer in hairsprays.

Lemongrass Oil: Cleansing and purifying to the skin, the oil is used for its excellent antiseptic properties. The oil also helps normalize oil production and reduce breakouts. It is high is vitamin A and can be found in bath and facial herb blends.

Lemon Oil: Used for its antiseptic and astringent properties as well as its detoxifying effects.

Lemon Thyme: An aromatic, antiseptic, diaphoretic, stimulant, disinfectant that has many useful applications. As part of a bath tisane or facial sauna, it helps to soothe and smooth skin.

Lesion: Any detectable change from normal structure and/or function.

Leukocytes:   White blood cells.

Leukocytosis: Abnormally high white blood cell count, usually the result of a non-viral infection.

Leukopenia:   Having an abnormally low white blood cell count.

Lichen Extract: It is a bactericide, fungicide. It is effective against yeast. It is used in deodorants, foot care products, mouth hygiene, and antimicrobial washes.

Lichenification: Thickening of the epidermis. Lichenified skin looks dry and leathery, and the normal skin markings are exaggerated. Repeated rubbing and scratching can produce lichenification.

Lichen Simplex Chronicus: Chronic disorder produced by the patient’s repeated scratching and rubbing. Lichenified plaques appear on the ankles, sides of the neck, genital areas, scalp, and upper back.

Licorice Extract: Inhibits melanin biosynthesis while scavenging free radicals (antioxidant). Treats acne and calms allergic skin.

Licorice Root organic: Great facial steaming herb used to open and soothe the pores so that other herbs may cleanse and medicate them.

Limbic System: A functional system in the brain generally considered to mediate emotions with metabolism.

Linden: Linden is a relaxant used in nervous tension and some forms of migraine. It has a reputation as a prophylactic against the development of arteriosclerosis and hypertension. It is used to combat high blood pressure associated with arteriosclerosis and nervous tension. Linden’s actions include: nervine, anti-spasmodic, hypotensive, diaphoretic, diuretic, anti-inflammatory, emmenagogue, and astringent.

Lineolamido Propyl Ethydimonium Ethosulfate: Antistatic and hair conditioning agent.

Liniment: A topical liquid (alcohol, oil or water preparation) containing therapeutic agents for topical application.

Lipid: Generally, these are organic products found in living systems that are insoluble in water, like fats. Cell membranes are made of lipids. We lose lipids as we age, which is why skin becomes less supple. Broadly, it means true fats (like triglycerides), lipoids (like phospholipids) and sterols (like cholesterol).

Lipophilic: Having an affinity for lipids.

Lipoprotein: Any of the lipid-protein complexes in which lipids are transported in the blood.

Liposomes: Microscopic sacs manufactured from natural or synthetic fatty substances that include phospholipids (components of cell membranes). Phospholipids can trap any substance that will dissolve in water or oil. Liposomes act like a delivery system, depositing product ingredients into the skin. When the liposomes "melt" the ingredients, such as moisturizers, are released.  

Liquid Crystal Cholesteric Esters: Microencapsulated strands of cholesterol lipids for skin repair and moisturizing. Highly absorptive crystals carry active ingredients into the deeper layers of the epidermis.

Liquorice: Liquorice affects the endocrine system and liver, amongst other organs. As an anti-hepatotoxic it can be effective in the treatment of chronic hepatitis and cirrhosis. Liquorice is used in allopathic medicine as a treatment for peptic ulceration, a similar use to its herbal use in gastritis and ulcers. Caution: It is best to avoid Liquorice if you have hypertension, kidney disease or during pregnancy. Liquorice’s actions include: expectorant, demulcent, anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic and mild laxative.

Lobelia: Actions: Anti-asthmatic, anti-spasmodic, expectorant, emetic, nervine. Indications: Lobelia is a useful systemic relaxants. It has a general depressant action on the central and autonomic nervous system and on neuro-muscular action. Its primary specific use is in bronchitic asthma and bronchitis. Lobeline is a powerful respiratory stimulant that will stimulate catarrhal secretion and expectoration while relaxing the muscles of the respiratory system.

Lotion: A dermatological vehicle like Calamine Lotion (a suspension of insoluble powder in a liquid) or a pourable emulsion of oil in water, often called creamy lotions.

Lubricant:   An oil or oil rich crème or lotion designed to lubricate the skin and slow moisture loss.

Luffa - Loofah: A long vining plant (resembling a cucumber plant) bears fruit, that, once dried and washed of rind and seeds, gives us a wonderful body scrub! It helps stimulate circulation as well as exfoliate dead skin cells.

Lumbar Region: The lower back five segments of the spinal chord and column, between the sacrum and thoracic regions.

Lupus Erythematosus: An autoimmune disorder in which a variety of skin lesions appear.

Lymph: A transparent, slightly yellow liquid of alkaline reaction, found in the lymphatic vessels and derived from the tissue fluids. Lymph is collected from all parts of the body and returned to the blood via the lymphatic system.

Lymphocyte: White blood cell manufactured in the bone marrow, lymph, nodes, and spleen. There are two types: B cells and T cells.

Lymphokines: Substances released by sensitized lymphocytes on contact with specific antigen. Lymphokines help affect cellular immunity by stimulating macrophages.

Lysine style='mso-bidi-font-style:italic'>: An essential Amino Acid that helps form collagen (which makes up bone cartilage & connective tissues); aids in the production of antibodies, hormones & enzymes. A deficiency may result in hair loss.

Macrophage: A leukocyte that helps clear foreign debris by phagocytosis (i.e. fights tumor cells and bacteria); a white blood cell derived from a monocyte.

Macule: A flat skin lesion that has an abnormal color, coloring that differs from the surrounding normal skin. White, brown, and red are the most common color changes seen in macules. A freckle is a macule. When a macule is larger than 5 mm it is called a patch.

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Absorbent: Anti-caking agent.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Vitamin C that does not oxidize upon exposure to air; an antioxidant that is linked to collagen synthesis.

Magnesium Citrate: Magnesium salt of citric acid. It is used in hair sets or bodying agents.

Ma Huang: An herb used to treat asthma and associated conditions due to its power to relieve spasms in the bronchial tubes. It is thus used in bronchial asthma, bronchitis and whooping cough. It also reduces allergic reactions like hay fever. It may be used in the treatment of low blood pressure and circulatory insufficiency. Ma Huang’s actions include: vasodilator, hypertensive, circulatory stimulant and anti-allergic.

Malabsorption: Impaired absorption of nutrients; i.e. impaired intestinal absorption.

Neurogenic: Sensations or conditions derived solely from the nervous system.

Neuropathy: Disease of the nervous system.

Niacin: (Vitamin B-3) Niacin improves circulation and reduces the cholesterol level in the blood; maintains the nervous system; helps metabolize protein, sugar & fat; reduces high blood pressure; increases energy through proper utilization of food; prevents pellagra; and helps maintain a healthy skin, tongue & digestive system. Go to the Vitamins Dictionary and look up Niacin – Vitamin B3.

Niacinamide: (Niacin – Vitamin B-3) Member of the water-soluble B vitamin group, used in the production of fatty acids, steroids and cholesterol, deficiency is known as pellagra. Has a cholesterol-lowering and vasodilating property. See Niacin.

Nodule: A small lump, swelling or collection of tissue located in the dermis or subcutaneous tissue.

Non-Acneogenic: Will neither cause nor aggravate acne.

Non-comedogenic: (Non-occlusive) Does not plug the pores of the skin.

Nonionic: When discussing shampoos, a nonionic surfactant is a mild cleanser with good conditioning properties in which the active molecule has no electric charge.

Nonionic Surfactants: Those in which the active molecule has no electric charge. Their properties vary widely, from very harsh cleansers (often found in commercial shampoos and rug cleaners) to coating and fiber softening agents found in balsams and rinses.

Nonoxynol: Nonionic surfactant used as detergents, emulsifiers, wetting agents, defoaming agents, spermicidal, and as a primary component of vaginal foams and creams.

Nummular Dermatitis: A chronic condition characterized by coin shaped eczematous plaques and pruritus (itching skin). Lesions occur on the hands, forearms, lower legs, and buttocks.

Nutrient: A substance, such as a vitamin, which provides elements for the ongoing functioning of the body's metabolic processes.

Nylon-12: Microscopic spheroids that have tremendous absorbent powers. Nylon- 12 remains on the skin's surface to absorb skin oil as it's secreted, making the skin's surface imperfections (including wrinkles) less apparent.

Parsley: Useful in oils and bath or facial herbs for its cleansing and medicating action. Soothes skin.

Parsol 1789: The trade name for Avobenzone. See Avobenzone.

Passion Flower: Passion Flower has a depressant effect like a sedative, and is hypotensive; it is used for it's sedative and soothing properties, to lower blood pressure, prevent tachycardia and for insomnia. It is the herb of choice for treating intransigent insomnia.

Patchouli Oil: Extracted from the plant, Pogostemon patchouli. Used for its antiseptic properties.

Patch Test: Test which helps identify allergens responsible for allergic contact dermatitis.

Pathology: The discipline of medicine; the study of disease, particularly one with clear and obvious changes in structure or function where the body is concerned.

Pau d’ Arco: Tree native to Brazil. History records its use as a treatment of cancer and a wide range of other diseases.

Peach Leaf: Used in facial masks for their emollient properties, especially nice for normal to dry skin. Enriching, toning.

PEG: (Polyethylene Glycol or Polyoxyethylene Glycol) Polymeric forms of ethylene oxide that is used to produce a wide range of cosmetic materials. PEG-75 Lanolin has protective and emollient properties, while PEG-20 Stearate is an emulsifier.

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate: Emollient and co-emulsifier.

PEG-20 Stearate: A water-soluble emulsifier for triglycerides, waxes, and mineral oils.

PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate: A mild surfactant.

PEG-100 Stearate: Derived from stearic acid; it is an emulsifier for creams and lotions.

PEG-150 Distearate: Form stabilizer; hair and skin conditioner.

Pemphigus: An acute or chronic autoimmune skin disease found mainly in adults leading to regular or constant skin eruptions (blisters). The causes are not known.

Pentacrythritol Tetra Caprate/Caprylate: Emulsifier derived from caprylic acid. Vegetable source.

Peppermint: Emollient herb that is astringent, stimulating, cleansing, restorative and healing.

Peppermint Leaf: Cooling and antiseptic in bath and facial herbs. The essential oil applied topically to the skin may have a drying or very tingly effect, whereas the herb is an emollient.

Peptide: Any member of a class of compounds of low molecular weight that yield two or more amino acids on hydrolysis. Peptides form the constituent parts of proteins.

Percutaneous Penetration: Penetration through the skin.

Perioral Dermatitis: Condition characterized by erythema, scaling and papules, and pustules around the mouth.

Periwinkle: An excellent astringent that may be used internally or externally. Used to treat excessive menstrual flow.

Permeable: Capable of being passed through like light through a glass.

Petitgrain Oil: Oil extract used for its skin soothing and calming properties.

Petrolatum: Cream additive derived from petroleum to help soften and soothe the skin. Forms a film to prevent moisture loss (Vaseline is petrolatum).

Petroleum: Mixture of hydrocarbons with similar properties as mineral oil. Industrially it is used as a grease component.

PG Inhibitor: A PGE inhibitor like aspirin usually intended to lessen joint inflammation and uterine spasms.

PH: (pH: percentage of hydrogen) Used to measure acidity in cosmetic preparations.

Phagocytosis: The absorption and digestion of foreign materials by cells.

Phenyl Trimethicone: Emollient, moisturizer. Water resistant silicone, adds shine and flexibility.

Phospholipid: A lipid containing phosphorus. Used in dry skin preparations. A phospholipid is a complex fatty material found in all living cells that acts as an emollient, antioxidant, natural emulsifier and spreading agent.

Phosphoric Acid: An inorganic acid; a pH adjuster.

Photoaging: Premature breakdown of the skin's cells caused by damage from the sun's UVA and UVB rays.

Photosensitivity: A condition in which the sun causes, due to an application or ingestion of certain chemicals or foods, skin problems, such as rash, hyperpigmentation, swelling, and sunburn. Caused by reaction to certain drugs and chemicals as well as Vitamin A (retinol and/or alpha hydroxy acids).

Phototherapy: Therapeutic use of light.

pH scale: System for measuring the alkalinity or acidity of soil.

Phytocosmetic: Cosmetics that are made from plants.

Phytosterols: Plant sterols (lipids), synthesized by plants and similar to cholesterol in structure, phytosterols are believed to decrease cholesterol absorption by competing with cholesterol for receptor sites in the GI tract.

Pigment: Means "color", and it refers to the minerals and plant extracts used to give makeup its many different hues. The higher the concentration of pigment, the stronger and more opaque the colors will be.

Pilosebaceous Unit: The sebaceous follicle, sebaceous glands and sebaceous ducts. Where acne occurs.

Pineapple Extract: Contains the protein digesting and blood clotting enzyme bromelin, anti-inflammatory.

Pinecone Extract: Extracted from the cones of pine trees. Helps to alleviate pain and discomfort and overcomes fatigue. Considered to be stimulating to the skin, by increasing blood flow and oxygenation.

Pine Needle: Extracted from the plant, Pinus sylvestris. Used for its antiseptic properties.

Pityriasis Alba: Seborrheic dermatitis.

Pityriasis Capitis: Dandruff.

Pityrosporum: Yeast that is a common inhabitant of the skin, usually starting at puberty. Not the yeast that causes vaginitis in women.

Pityrosporum Folliculitis: An acne-like rash composed of minute papules and pustules but no comedones (blackheads / whiteheads). It occurs most frequently on the forehead and sides of the face.

Placental Extract: As extract of bovine or human placentas after birthing. It is a naturally rich source of skin nutrients, amino acids, and proteins; has a revitalizing effect on skin.

Planell Oil: Oil containing naturally derived phytosterols and glycolipids; acts as an emollient.

Plantain: It acts as a gentle expectorant that also soothes inflamed and sore membranes, making it ideal for coughs and mild bronchitis. Its astringency aids in diarrhea, hemorrhoids and also in cystitis where there is bleeding. It seems to have a sedative influence upon the nerves of the face, and relieves many cases of earache, tic douloureux and toothache.

Plasma: The fluid portion of the blood in which the particulate components are suspended.

Pleurisy Root: Pleurisy Root anti-inflammatory and expectorant effects make it effective against respiratory infections and in the treatment of bronchitis and other chest condition. In addition, its diaphoretic and anti-spasmodic powers make it valued in the treatment of pleurisy and pneumonia.

Pneumonia: Inflammation, usually infectious, of the lungs.

Poloxamer 407: Non-ionic polymer cleansing agent (surfactant).

Polyethylene Thickener: Thickeners used as gelling agents, like a wax.

Polymer: A chemical compound or mixture of compounds formed by polymerization (a chemical reaction in which two or more molecules combine to form larger molecules that contain repeating structural units).

Polyquaternium 7: Conditioner preparation used in both rinse-off and leave-in conditioner.

Polyquaternium 11: A fixative with anti-bacterial properties. Adds hold and sheen in styling tools.

Polyquaternium 37: Emulsifier.

Polysorbate: Emulsifier.

Polysorbate 20: A viscous, oily, water-soluble liquid used to stabilize perfumes in water-based preparations and act as a modifier and stabilizer of shampoos, liquid soaps and conditioners.

Polysorbate 80: Surface-active agent that provides smooth and complete spreading of the cleanser (used to emulsify oils).

Pore: A small opening of the sweat glands of the skin

Potassium: An essential mineral that promotes healthy skin.

Potassium Sorbate: A mild food grade preservative found in cheese, wine, etc.

Poultice: Plant matter that aids injured or inflamed skin.

PPG-1: Emulsifier.

PPG 2 Isodeceth 12: An organic solubilixer of perfume oils and emulsifier.

Precursor: Something that precedes something. In biological processes, a substance from which another, usually more active or mature substance is formed. In clinical medicine, a sign or symptom that heralds another.

Prickly Ash: Used to combat rheumatism, skin diseases, and poor circulation such as chilblains, cramp in the leg, varicose veins and varicose ulcers. A circulatory stimulant used to stimulate the nerve centers and functional activity of the body's organs.

Primer: A colorless lotion or gel applied to the face before makeup. Makes for longer-lasting, more even-looking makeup.

Pristane: A saturated hydrocarbon found in natural oils

Proline: An amino acid that when combined with sodium PCA, has been demonstrated to provide excellent moisture absorption and retention properties to the skin.

Propane: A natural propellant.

Propioni-Bacterium Acnew: Anaerobic bacterium that thrives in the follicular canal of the pilosebaceous unit. Implicated in the pathogenesis of acne (Causes acne if not treated).

Propylene Glycol: Combination of glycerin and water, an organic humectant similar to Butylene Glycol used in cosmetics. Clear, colorless liquids that are among the most common moisture-carrying vehicles in skin care. It delivers superb permeation through the skin and excellent humectant properties (softens and moisturizes the skin).

Propylene Glycol Dicocoate: A mixture of propylene glycol esters of coconut fatty acids; aids in removing unwanted build-up from hair.

Propylene Glycol Stearate: As ester of propylene glycol and stearic acid. Used in creams, lotions, hair care products and makeup as co-emulsifier to produce a pearly opaque effect.

Propyl Paraben: Common cosmetic food grade preservative that is anti-fungal and anti-microbial. It is less water-soluble than methylparaben. See Methyl Paraben.

Protein: Large organic molecules, made of amino acids, found in all living cells. Enzymes and hormones are proteins. So are collagen, keratin, and elastin. Proteins break down through sun damage and aging. Applied topically to the skin proteins help the skin's surface look firmer.

Protein Treatment: A hair treatment designed to add strength and elasticity to the hair by adding protein to the cortex.

Proteolytic: An enzyme or agent that accelerates the breaking down or digestive hydrolysis of proteins into smaller proteins, peptides, polypeptides, ligopeptides, amino acids, etc.

Protovanol: A concentrated form of vanilla that reacts to heat and light to accelerate the tanning process.

Provisional Listing: A list of colors, originally numbering about 200, that FDA allows to continue to be used pending acceptable safety data.

Pro-Vitamin B5: Panthenol stimulates skin healing while providing deep moisturization. See Panthenol.

Pruritus: Itching.

Pseudofolliculitis Barbae: Follicular papules or pustules provoked by close shaving of the beard area in men. Usually occurs in men with very curly hair.

Psoriasis: A chronic disease of the skin consisting of itchy, dry, red patches, usually affecting the scalp or arms and legs.

Purpura: Lesion caused by the escape of blood from a vessel into the surrounding tissue.

Pus: A collection of white blood cells in tissue fluid, it may be either a sign of infection or inflammation.

Pustule: Vesicle filled with cloudy fluid such as pus.

PVM/MA Copolymer: A water-soluble fixative used in hairsprays and styling tools.

PVP/VA Copolymer: A water-soluble fixative used in hairsprays.

Pyorrhea: A discharge of pus.

Pyridoxine: (Vitamin B6) Necessary for the synthesis & breakdown of amino acids, the building blocks of protein; aids in fat and carbohydrate metabolism; aids in the formation of antibodies; maintains the central nervous system; aids in the removal of excess fluid of premenstrual women; promotes healthy skin; reduces muscle spasms, leg cramps, hand numbness, nausea & stiffness of hands; helps maintain a proper balance of sodium & phosphorous in the body. Go to the Vitamins Dictionary and look up Vitamin B6.

Pyroxidine HCL: Vitamin B6 used as a texturizer.

Retin-A: Vitamin A derivative that acts as a topical anti-acne treatment. Additionally found to be beneficial in removing fine lines from facial skin. Caution: Can create photosensitivity. See Vitamin A Derivatives.

Retinoid: Natural or synthetic derivative of vitamin A with a wide range of therapeutic applications. See Vitamin A Derivatives.

Retinol: A vitamin A acid (main ingredient in Retin-A and Renova). These products are used to treat fine wrinkles and acne. See Vitamin A Derivatives.

Retinyl Palmitate: A vitamin A derivative that is an essential skin nutrient necessary for healthy skin maintenance and repair. It is useful in cosmetics to moisturize dry skin and reduce excess oil. See Vitamin A Derivatives.

Reverse Perm: A technique to straighten hair that uses rods to reset tightly curled hair into a looser, more manageable curl pattern.

Rheumatism: Defined broadly, it is almost any chronic dull ache resulting from and associated with the aging process.

Rhubarb: This root is collected in China and Turkey (not the garden variety). Rhubarb Root has a purgative action that makes it useful in the treatment of constipation. It also has an astringent, antiseptic and cleansing action upon the stomach. It is used in cases of diarrhea, dysentery and functional dyspepsia.

Riboflavin: (Vitamin B2) Works with soluble tyrosine in suntan-enhancing products. Believed to accelerate tyrosine in tanning products. Produces a characteristic yellow color in lotions. Necessary for the maintenance of good vision, skin, nails & hair; alleviates eye fatigue; promotes general health.

Ribonucleic Acid: See RNA.

Ribosome: Any of the RNA-rich cytoplasmic granules that are sites of protein synthesis.

RNA: Ribonucleic acid; the nucleic acid in which the sugar is ribose, constituting the genetic material in the RNA viruses and playing a role in the flow of genetic information. RNA serves as a template for protein synthesis.

Robane: Obtained from shark oil, Robane helps skin absorb oxygen and acts to fight bacteria.

Rosacea: A chronic form of acne showing increased redness or acne-like eruptions. A facial skin disorder characterized by erythema, papules, pustules and telangiectasia on the cheeks, nose, and chin, forehead and/or eyelids. The treatment of skin eruptions may include long-term treatment with topical antifungals, steroids, or antibiotics.

Rose Water: Rose water has been used for its cleansing and astringent benefits. Rose water is a liquid with a pleasant smell and is used on the skin as a perfume or to flavor food.

Rose Hip Extract: Rich in natural Vitamin C, this extract is moisturizing and hydrating to the skin. It can also help protect the skin from capillary damage and firms and tones skin tissues.

Rosemary: Rosemary has stimulating, rejuvenating, astringent, nervine, conditioning and antiseptic properties. It is used in infusions, teas, decoctions, poultices, oils, etc. Rosemary is a circulatory and nervine stimulant, which has a toning and calming effect on the digestion. It may also be used in cases of psychological tension to counteract flatulent dyspepsia, headache or depression associated with debility. Externally it may be used to ease muscular pain, sciatica and neuralgia. It acts as a stimulant to both the hair follicles and circulation in the scalp and may help combat premature baldness. It has a fragrant smell, and a warm, pungent, bitter taste. It is further used in cookery and perfumes.

Rosemary Extract: As an extract it can be used as a natural diuretic, tonic, decongestant, and a tissue toner and firmer. See Rosemary.

Rosemary Oil: Used for its purifying, cleansing and antiseptic properties. See Rosemary.

Royal Jelly: Royal Jelly produced by bees is high in B vitamins and contains all the essential amino acids, unsaturated fats, natural sugars, and minerals such as iron, calcium, silicon, sulfur, and potassium. Applied topically it's said to help improve skin's elasticity and minimizes wrinkles nourishing the skin and erasing facial blemishes. Royal Jelly has also been used to treat cases of fatigue, depression, and convalescence from illness. It is capable of stimulating the adrenal glands to produce a positive reaction on increased metabolism, enhanced energy, greater sexual capability and appetite.

Rubefacient: An external application causing redness or irritation to the skin.

Rue: The oil of Rue is a powerful compound that induces the expulsion of an embryo or fetus (abortifacient), and should be avoided during pregnancy. Its main use is the regulation of menstrual periods .As an anti-spasmodic it may be used to relax muscles, especially in the digestive system where it will ease griping and bowel tension. It also increases peripheral circulation and lowers elevated blood pressure. If the fresh leaf is chewed, it will relieve tension headaches, ease palpitations and other anxiety problems. Caution: avoid during pregnancy.

SD: (Specially Denatured) Government required prefix with ethyl alcohol to signify it is unfit for human consumption. (SD 40 contains Bitrox, one of the bitterest substances known.)

SD 40 Alcohol: Used primarily in hair spray as a resin solvent.

Sea Salt: Useful exfoliant in body scrubs; helps soften and soothe the body.

Seasonal Coloring: Spring, summer, autumn and winter seasonal color groups that are flattering to particular kinds of coloring.

Sea Kelp: A large coarse seaweed or wrack that is used as a skin soother and iodine sources.

Seaweed: A plant with gelatin-like, moisture-retaining properties. A main ingredient in peel-off moisturizing masks, and used in face creams and lotions as a thickening agent. Also makes a great nutritional supplement because of the minerals and vitamins within the seaweed.

Sea Wrack: Seaweed cast ashore.

Sebaceous Duct: Duct through which the sebaceous gland empties sebum into the sebaceous follicle.

Sebaceous Gland: Gland in the dermis that produces sebum. Distributed over almost the entire body but concentrated on the face, upper back and chest.

Seborrhea: Increased sebum secretion. Implicated in the pathogenesis of acne.

Seborrheic Dermatitis: Common inflammatory condition of the skin that most often affects the scalp and face (areas above the neck), however, the armpits, and groin, buttocks and skin folds underneath the breasts can also be affected.

Seborrheic Keratosis: Benign skin lesion that is the most common skin tumor in the middle-aged and elderly. Usually found on the face, shoulders, chest and back. The lesions are flesh colored to tan or brown.

Sebum: A viscous, pale yellow natural oil secretion of the sebaceous glands in the skin and scalp that lubricate and protect and also are implicated in the pathogenesis of acne. Contains squalene, waxes and cholesterol.

Secretion: A release of material such as saliva or urine.

Sedative: Relaxes the nervous system and promotes sleep.

Self-tanner: A sun tanning product that contains DHA, which reacts with amino acids in the top layer of skin, causing it to temporarily darken (2-4 days).

Selenium: A major antioxidant nutrient; protects cell membranes and prevents free radical generation thereby reducing the risk of cancer and disease. Selenium also preserves tissue elasticity; slows down the aging and hardening of tissues through oxidation and helps in the treatment and prevention of dandruff.

Selenium Protein Complex: (Biomin S-P-C) Neutralizes free radicals on the skin and serves as a counter irritant.

Selenium Sulfide: An ingredient found in dandruff shampoos that inhibits mitotic activity and kills yeasts.

Sensitizer:   An ingredient that causes the skin to become sensitive to other ingredients or the environment; A sensitizer also refers to an ingredient that causes the skin to redden, swell, blister or itch.

Serum: The clear portion of any body fluid; the clear fluid moistening serous membranes. 2. blood serum; the clear liquid that separates from blood on clotting. 3. Immune serum; blood serum from an immunized animal used for passive immunization; an antiserum, antitoxin, or antivenin.

Sesame Oil: Emollient oil with anti-fungal, anti-viral and antibacterial properties. Also used as a base in preservative-free skincare products because it won't turn rancid when stored at room temperature.

Shea butter: See Karite Butter.

Shelf Bra: A bra that is donned below the breast to just under the nipple, which helps to uplift the breasts for added cleavage.

Shelf Life: The length of time a product can be expected to remain fresh.

Shephard’s Purse: A plant used for its diuretic, astringent and anti-inflammatory properties, for instance in water retention due to kidney problems, as a treatment of diarrhoea, wounds, nose bleeds, and other conditions. It also acts as a stimulator of the menstrual process.

Shiatsu: A Japanese method of massage that uses Acupressure.

Siberian Ginseng: (Eleutherococcus Senticosis) Ginseng has been used to help increase our resistance and resilience to stress (adaptogen). An herb said to promote an overall improvement in one's health.

Silica: (silicon dioxide) Absorbent, anti-caking, abrasive.  

Silica Microbeads: They function as a heat resistant carrier molecule (a delivery system with unique carrying abilities) because of their ability to hold and absorb material. Silica Microbeads also impart a smoothness and resilient texture to the skin, as they possess a "ball-bearing," silky emolliency.

Silicone: A compound of silicon used in shine-enhancing hair products to seal the cuticle of hair and in many oil-free cosmetics.  

Silk Amino Acids: A natural water-soluble source of acid derived from liquid silk; these acids help moisture penetrate the skin (aid in absorption) and aid in skin healing. Used in skin and hair products, powder, and color makeup. See Amino acids.

Silk Protein: See Silk Amino Acids.

Skin Care: Skin maintenance activities utilizing products to keep the skin clean, moist and attractive, including cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and treatments to control acne, blemishes and postpone visible signs of aging.

Skullcap: A widely relevant nervine that helps relax states of nervous tension while renewing and revivifying the central nervous system. Used in cases of exhaustion or other depressed conditions. It has a specific use in the treatment of seizure and hysterical states as well as epilepsy and may be used to ease pre-menstrual tension. Skullcap’s actions include: nervine tonic, anti-spasmodic and hypotensive.

Skunk Cabbage: Skunk Cabbage may be used in tense or spasmodic conditions occur in the lungs. It acts to relax and ease irritable coughs. Also used in asthma, bronchitis and whooping cough. As a diaphoretic it will aid the body during fevers. Its actions include: anti-spasmodic, diaphoretic and expectorant.

Slippery Elm: Used for its emollient properties.

Slippery Elm Bark: Used for its soothing and softening properties.

Slough: To become shed or cast off (to separate in the form of dead tissue from living tissue).

Soap: Cleansing agent that is a sodium or potassium salt of animal or vegetable fat.

Soap Bark: A perennial herb that is used as a natural cleanser.

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Suffonate: Surfactant derived from coconut oil. Used in "soapless" shampoos.

Sodium Cetyl Sulfate: A water-soluble derivative of saturated fatty alcohol.

Sodium Chloride: A purified common table salt used for its natural cleansing, toning, refreshening, astringent, antiseptic and moisture absorption properties.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate: An organic preservative derived from the amino acid glycine.

Sodium laureth-13 Carboxylate: An anionic surfactant that increases the cleansing power of some shampoos.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate: A high foaming, viscous surfactant, milder to the skin than sodium lauryl sulfate. It is an excellent cleansing agent for shampoos.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: A white powder used as a detergent, emulsifier, and surfactant in cosmetics. Also used as a water softener and degreaser.   

Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate: A very mild cleansing agent with light conditioning properties.

Sodium PCA: Occurs naturally in human skin and is responsible for binding moisture to the cells. Highly water-absorbent, holding several times its weight in water, which makes it an excellent humectant.

Sodium Saccharin: Non-caloric artificial flavoring, sweetener, 300 times sweeter than sugar. Used in mouthwash, denitrifies, lipsticks, etc.

Sodium Tallowate: Salt of tallow - animal fat. Sodium is a major mineral involved in maintaining our body’s acid-base balance, fluid retention, and nerve impulse transmission.

Sodium Thiosulfate: A very reactive inorganic salt used to neutralize chlorine and other halogens.

Sodium Trideceth Sulfate: A wetting agent for shampoo preparations and baby shampoos.

Soluble: Being able to dissolve into, or being compatible with, another substance.

Solvent: Liquid substance able to dissolve or disperse other substances.

Somatic: A term that means related to the body (soma), as opposed to the mind (psyche).

Soothing: Reducing skin discomforts from irritation, blemishes, burning skin, etc.

Sorbitan Stearate: Used as an emulsifier, a thickener and a stabilizer of essential oils in lotion products.

Sorbitol: A humectant (attracts water and binds moisture to the skin surface) that can be found naturally in ripe berries, seaweed and algae, and gives a velvety feel to the skin.

Soy Protein: An antioxidant and immune-boosters that may prevent cancer and help with menopause.

Soybean Oil: An alternative to petrolatum because of its emulsive (thickening and binding) abilities. It's also has emollient property and may be found in some skincare products. Also contains antioxidants and nutrients.

SPF: An acronym for "Sun Protection Factor" ranging from 2 to 45 with 2 being the least protection and 45 the most. The number represents the Protection Factor that gives us the number of minutes you can stay in the sun without burning (wearing no SPF) multiplied by the number of minutes you can stay in the sun after applying the sunscreen (wearing SPF). Example? If you naturally burn in 10 minutes and you apply a SPF 30 sunscreen, you can now stay out in the sun for 300 minutes with the product on.

Spiraea Extract Spiraea Ulmaria extract: (Meadowsweet) An extract that acts as an anti-inflammatory on joints and has a diuretic effect on the tissues. The leaves of the plant are used in the treatment of rheumatism and cellulitis and when applied directly on the skin, its anti-inflammatory actions help reduce puffiness and fluid retention.  

Squalene: A topical emollient that is spreadable and soothing to the skin and is used in skincare products. Made from shark-liver oil but also found in small quantities in human sebum.

Stasis: The slowing or stopping of, i.e. blood flow; to keep something in a static, atonic state. May also define a condition of stoppage or blockage resulting in varicose veins or intestinal problems.

Stasis Dermatitis: Condition characterized by itchy eczema-like eruptions on the lower legs and ankles.

Stearalkonium Chloride: Reduces static electricity by neutralizing electrical charges on hair. Good conditioning agent - cationic surfactant.

Stearamidopropyl Dimethyamine: A water-soluble derivative of stearic acid. Possesses unique properties of closing hair cuticles over a wide range of pH.

Steareth 21: The polyethelyne glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol. The number indicates the degree of liquidity from 4 (thin) to 100 (solid). An emulsifier.

Stearic Acid and Stearyl Alcohol: Used for its emollient properties and as a moisturizing ingredient.  

Stearyl Alcohol: An emulsion stabilizer; also adds body to a lotion.

Stenosis: Narrowing or stricture of a duct or canal.

Sterile: Unable to produce offspring; barren. 2. Aseptic; free from living microorganisms.

Steroid: Any of numerous compounds containing a 17-carbon 4-ring system and including the sterols and various hormones and glycosides.

Steriod Acne: The appearance of erythematous papules and pustules on the trunk, shoulders, and upper arms 7 – 14 days after beginning high-dose systemic steroids and within 3 - 6 weeks of lower dose corticosteroids; increased risk in those with acne or in those with a past history of acne.

Steriod-Responsive Dermatosis: Skin condition that responds to treatment with topical corticosteroids.

Steriod Rosacea: The prolonged use of a topical cortisone cream has the potential to produce damage to skin (thinning skin, skin addiction to cortisone, hair growth, discoloration, etc.).

Stimulant: Increases circulation. Produces stimulation.

Stinging Nettle: Used in soap making and herbal preparations. Rich in minerals and plant hormones.

Stratum Corneum: The horny cell layer of the epidermis.

Stratum Germinativum: The basal cell layer of the epidermis, where normal cell division takes place.

Stratum Granulosum: The granular layer of the epidermis. The cells of this layer contain keratohyalin granules, which contain a protein called filaggrin.

Stratum Lucidum: The clear cell layer of the epidermis. Appears only on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet.

Stratum Spinosum: The prickle cell layer of the epidermis. Consists of many rows of cells that appear to be held together by spines or prickles.

Stretch Marks: Usually permanent skin damage that occurs during pregnancy or rapid weight gain. When the skin tissue is stretched, skin cells can become damaged and may stop producing collagen and elastin.

Striae: Skin stretch marks.

Stearyl Alcohol: A natural fatty alcohol derived mainly from coconut oil, very similar to cetyl alcohol. See cetyl alcohol.

Subacute: Less severity or shorter length of course than a corresponding acute condition.

Subcutaneous: Beneath the skin.

Subcutaneous Tissue: A layer of fat that lies beneath the dermis and acts as an insulator and shock absorber.

Subcutis: Subcutaneous tissue.

Surfactant: Surface active agent. Used as a cleansing agent in soap-free cleansers.

Sulfur: Sulfur accelerates peeling of the skin (micro-exfoliant) and has an antiseptic action on the skin surface when applied topically. It is particularly suitable for skin prone to breakout and congestion.

Sunscreen: Products with ingredients that absorb UVA and UVB rays. Find one labeled "broad spectrum" for maximum protection.

Sunblock: Products that reflect all the sun's rays, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They permit minimal tanning, and are a good choice for those who are sensitive to chemicals.

Sunflower Seed Oil: Useful for oily skin conditions because of its semi-drying actions. The seeds provide an emollient feel in pastes and masques.

Superoxide Dismutase: A naturally occurring enzyme that can protect the skin from free radicals, which can cause skin damage. Works against skin dryness and hair loss. It is used in supplements, skincare products, and hair products.

Surfactants: Active agent that allows oil to mix with water. Used in skincare products like cleansers, wetting agents, emulsifiers, solubizers, conditioning agents and foam stabilizers.

Sweet Almond Oil: Skin emollients used commonly in massage oils.

Symptom: Any subjective evidence of disease or change in a patient's condition.

Synthetic Bar: A far less irritating soap that contains synthetic surfactants (cleansing agents).

Systemic: Affecting the entire body not just one of its parts.

Tea Tree Oil: A natural preservative with antiseptic and germicidal properties used in soaps, shampoos, and skin-care products.

Telangiectasia: A visible area of the skin in which the skin’s color is due to permanent enlarged superficial blood vessels.

Telogen: Resting phase of hair growth cycle.

Temporary Color: A hair color formula that lasts only until you shampoo your hair.

Teratogen: An agent capable of causing malformations in embryos (causes birth defects). Isotretinoin, the oral retinoid for acne, is a teratogen.

Teratogenic: Causing birth defects.

Terminal: The definition of a terminal, as it applies to cosmetics, is one of two types of hair shaft. The terminal hair shaft is thick, long and dark. The scalp, eyebrows, axillae and pubic regions are covered with terminal hairs.

Tester: A sample product available for testing (trying out).

Testosterone: The principal reproductive androgen of males, largely responsible for sexual maturation, some libido, and a range of metabolic reactions

Tetracycline: First of the broad-spectrum antibiotics. Used in oral and topical forms as an acne treatment. It blocks the binding of aminoacyl tRNA to the ribosomes of certain bacterium.

Tetrasodium EDTA: Same as sodium EDTA. It's a chelating agent (sequestrant – a remover/separator) that reacts with sodium, calcium and magnesium salts found in hard water and makes them water-soluble. Water softener. A bonding agent that links with minerals to prevent them from causing microbial growth.

Texturize: To comb relaxer through the hair and leave it in briefly to loosen the curl pattern.

Thea Sinensis Extract: See Green Tea.

Thiamine: (Vitamin B1) Plays a key role in helping the body generate energy; aids in the digestion of carbohydrates; is essential for the normal functioning of the nervous system, muscles heart; stabilizes the appetite; and promotes growth good muscle tone.

Thickening Mascara: A heavier mascara formula that builds up a volumizing coat of color on the lashes.

Threonine: (Essential Amino Acid) An important constituent of collagen, Elastin, and enamel protein. It is an important constituent in many body proteins and is necessary for the formation of tooth enamel protein, collagen and elastin. It is a precursor to the amino acids glycine and serine. It acts as a lipotropic in controlling fat build-up in the liver. May help combat mental illness and may be very useful in indigestion and intestinal malfunctions. Also, Threonine prevents excessive liver fat. Nutrients are more readily absorbed when threonine is present.

Thrush: Infection of the mouth or genital regions by the fungus Candida Albicans.

Thyme: Thyme is known as a powerful antiseptic and a general tonic, with healing powers. It is said to be used in cases of anemia, bronchial and intestinal disturbances. Properties and Uses (Garden thyme): Anthelmintic, antispasmodic, carminative, diaphoretic, expectorant, sedative. As a tincture, extract, or infusion, thyme is commonly used in throat and bronchial problems, including acute bronchitis, laryngitis, and whooping cough, and also for diarrhea, chronic gastritis, and lack of appetite. For coughs and spasmodic complaints, make the medication from the fresh plant. A warm infusion promotes perspiration and relieves flatulence and colic. Oil of thyme (thymol) has a powerful antiseptic action for which it is used in mouthwashes, toothpastes and soap. Thymol is also effective against ascarids and hookworms. As a local irritant, it can be used externally for warts or to encourage the flow of blood to the surface. Thyme baths are said to be helpful for neurasthenia, rheumatic problems, paralysis, bruises, swellings, and sprains. A salve made from thyme can be used for shingles.

Thymol: Oil of thyme (thymol) has a powerful antiseptic action for which it is used in mouthwashes, toothpastes and soap. Thymol is also effective against ascarids and hookworms. As a local irritant, it can be used externally for warts or to encourage the flow of blood to the surface. See Thyme.

Tincture: The term tincture (also called alcoholic tincture, and spirituous tincture) is reserved for the alcoholic solutions of nonvolatile substances, alcoholic solutions of volatile substances being called spirits. A solution (commonly colored) of medicinal substance in alcohol, usually more or less diluted.

Tinea Capitis: A fungal scalp infection (i.e., ringworm). Tineas: A dermatomycosis; any number of skin fungus infections, such as ringworm, athlete's foot, and so forth.

Tinted Moisturizer: A moisturizer that contains a bit of color.

Tissue Respiratory Factor: See TRF.

Titanium Dioxide: (Microcrystalline) Microcrystalline Titanium Dioxide is a new inorganic natural material, which functions as a sunblock to both UVA and UVB rays. A non-chemical, common agent used in sunscreen a product that works by physically blocking the sun. It may be used alone or in combination with other agents.

Tocopherol: (Vitamin E) Accumulates in the epidermis and forms a barrier against moisture evaporation from the skin. An anti-oxidant, Vitamin E helps prevent free radical damage in the skin tissues. Major anti-oxidant nutrient; retards cellular aging due to oxidation; aids in bringing nourishment to cells; strengthens the capillary walls prevents the red blood cells from destructive poisons. Aids against dry skin. Used as an antioxidant in cosmetics. See Vitamin E.

Tocopherol Acetate: (Vitamin E) Used in skincare products. Accumulates in the epidermis and forms a barrier against moisture evaporation from the skin. An anti-oxidant, Vitamin E helps prevent free radical damage in the skin tissues. Major anti-oxidant nutrient; retards cellular aging due to oxidation; aids in bringing nourishment to cells; strengthens the capillary walls prevents the red blood cells from destructive poisons. Aids against dry skin. See Vitamin E.

Tocopheryl Linoleate: (Vitamin E) A substance that helps prevent stiffening of the stratum corneum as a result of UV exposure. Provides the skin with linoleic acid, one of the major essential fatty acids. Accumulates in the epidermis and forms a barrier against moisture evaporation from the skin. An anti-oxidant, Vitamin E helps prevent free radical damage in the skin tissues. Major anti-oxidant nutrient; retards cellular aging due to oxidation; aids in bringing nourishment to cells; strengthens the capillary walls prevents the red blood cells from destructive poisons. Aids against dry skin. See Vitamin E.

Tocopheryl Nicotinnate: Increases blood supply at the skin's surface without irritation.

Toluene: Common solvent that is sometimes used in nail polish.

Tone: A hair or skin color’s underlying shade, which usually falls into one of three categories: warm, cool, or neutral.

Toner: Product that is used after cleansing to help return the skin to its natural pH. A toner helps remove dirt or debris from the skin.

Tonic: A substance taken to strengthen and prevent disease, especially chronic disease. Improves function of an organ or tissue. A product that nurtures enlivens and/or returns the normal tone to an organ or tissue (like skin).

Topical: Applied to the skin surface; applied externally.

Toxins: Any of a number of substances dangerous to life and overall health. The long-term effect of small amounts of toxins in food and cosmetics puts us at risk.

Trace Minerals: Play a major role in health, since even minute portions of them can powerfully affect health. They are essential in the assimilation and utilization of vitamins and other nutrients. They aid in digestion and provide the catalyst for many hormones, enzymes and essential body functions and reactions.

Transepidermal Water Loss: The migration of moisture upward through the skins tissues (from deeper dermal tissues). One of the sources of moisture for the stratum corneum.

Transparent Soap: Super fatted soap with a high glycerin content. Usually used for sensitive and normal-to-oily skin.

Tretinoin: Used as a topical treatment for the prevention and treatment of acne. A derivative of vitamin A

TRF: (Tissue Respiratory Factor) Skin care complex.   Composed of amino acids, mono- and disaccharides, vitamins, phosphorus containing compounds, nucleosides and nucleotides. TRF substances are produced by living cells (like yeast) upon injury. They may serve as healing agents, stimulate collagen and elastin production, and regenerate cells on the lower levels of the skin.

Trichologist: A professional who analyzes the hair and scalp to determine possible causes of hair problems.

Triclosan: An active broad-spectrum antibacterial agent that kills bacteria on the skin's surface. Shown to kill the bacteria associated with acne.

Trideceth-6: Emulsifier (thickening agent).

Triethanolamine: See TEA.

Triethyl Citrate: Derived from citric acid. It gives pliability to fixatives (fixatives may be decalcifying and/or hardening agents).

Triglyceride: Naturally occurring ester of fatty acids and glycerol; chief component of fats and oils. A type of blood fat. The body needs insulin to remove this type of fat from the blood.

Trisodium EDTA: A preservative; a sequestering (a removing/separating agent) and chelating agent (of sodium salt).

Trisodium Etidronate: A preservative.

Tyrosine: One of the twenty amino acids directly coded in proteins. Nonessential in humans since can be synthesized from phenylalanine. It is the amino acid from proteins that is converted through several metabolic steps to melanin. It is added to tanning accelerator products to supplement the body's normal level of tyrosine at the skin's pigment cell level thereby speeding the tanning process. Tyrosine is the amino acid in hair that color adheres to.

T-zone: The forehead, nose and chin areas, which tend to be oilier than the cheeks. Breakouts are most common in the T-zone.

UV: Ultraviolet radiation. The invisible spectrum of solar radiation. It is divided into three regions with increasing danger to the skin; UV-A, UV-B, and UV-C.

UVA: Ultraviolet light, type A - rays of light from the sun that are not visible but can cause damage to the skin. Approximate wavelength: 320 to 400 nanometers. UVA rays penetrate deeply into the skin. . “The sun aging rays.”

Uva-ursi: See Bearberry.

Vetiver: An essential oil derived from an African tree root and traditionally used to make mats and rugs. Vetiver has an earthy, smoky scent and may be an additive in perfumes. It is also used in aromatherapy for grounding and has been said to prevent stretch marks and help counter aging when applied topically.

Vesicle: A vesicle is a blister filled with clear fluid. A vesicle can be as large as a pea, but if it is larger is called a bulla.

Violet Flowers: Flowers high in vitamins A and C with soothing and slight astringent properties. These flowers are used in facial saunas and facial rinses.

Viscosity: The thickness or thinness (or stickiness) of a product and/or substance. If a substance has low viscosity, it tends to flow more easily (it is thinner); a high viscosity substance is less fluid (thicker).

Vitamin A: (Beta Carotene) Helps maintain smooth, soft disease-free skin; helps protect the mucous membranes of the mouth, nose, throat lungs, which helps reduce our susceptibility to infections; protects against air pollutants and contaminants; helps improve eye sight and counteracts night-blindness; aids in bone and teeth formation; improves skin elasticity, moisture content and suppleness; and helps reverse the signs of photo-aging. A lack of vitamin A can cause skin to become dry and hardened. Go to the Vitamins Dictionary and look up Vitamin A.

Vitamin A derivatives (Retinoids: retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl acetate) Vitamin A derivatives such as Retin-A can help prevent and reverse sun damage. They have exfoliating and skin strengthening properties. They are used clinically in the treatment of severe cystic acne, psoriasis, and other disorders of keratinization.

Vitamin B: Eleven different vitamins known as B complex : thiamin (B1), riboflavin (B2), niacin (B3), folic acid, biotin, pantothenic acid or panthenol (B5), pyridoxine (B6), choline, inositol, PABA, and cyanocobalamin (B12). Antioxidants and body regulators that work better together than alone.

Vitamin B1: See Thiamine.

Vitamin B2: See Riboflavin.

Vitamin B3: See Niacin.

Vitamin B5: See Pantothenic Acid.

Vitamin B6: See Pyridoxine. Go to the Vitamins Dictionary and look up Vitamin B6.

Vitamin B9: See Folic Acid.

Vitamin B12: (Cobalamin) Vitamin B12 helps in the formation regeneration of red blood cells, thus helping prevent anemia; necessary for carbohydrate, fat protein metabolism; maintains a healthy nervous system; promotes growth in children; increases energy; needed for Calcium absorption.

Vitamin C: (Ascorbic Acid) Vitamin C is essential for healthy teeth, gums Bones; helps heal wounds, scar tissue, Fractures; prevents scurvy; builds resistance to infection; aids in the prevention treatment of the common cold; gives strength to blood vessels; aids in the absorption of iron. It is required for the synthesis of collagen, the intercellular cement which holds tissues together. It is also one of the major antioxidant nutrients. It prevents the conversion of nitrates (from tobacco smoke, smog, bacon, lunchmeats, some vegetables) into cancer-causing substances. Moreover, Vitamin C has been shown to help slow the production of hyperpigmentation ( age spots ) while providing some UV protection.

Vitamin D: Vitamin D is necessary for healthy bones and teeth, for proper assimilation and body balances of calcium and phosphorus, and for preventing rickets. It is fat-soluble and is not sensitive to heat, light, or oxygen.

Vitamin E: Vitamin E is a major anti-oxidant nutrient; retards cellular aging due to oxidation; supplies oxygen to the blood which is then carried to the heart and other organs; thus alleviating fatigue; aids in bringing nourishment to cells; strengthens the capillary walls prevents the red blood cells from destructive poisons; prevents dissolves blood clots; has also been used by doctors in helping prevent sterility, muscular dystrophy, calcium deposits in blood walls and heart conditions.

Vitamin F: An essential fatty acid, this vitamin helps form the membranes that protect the skin cells, preventing the formation of dry, scaly skin.

Vitamin H: See Biotin.

Vitamin K: Needed for normal blood clotting. It may help protect against osteoporosis, may inhibit some cancer tumors, also aids in reducing excessive menstrual flow. Vitamin K occurs primarily in plants and is also synthesized by intestinal bacteria in the small intestine. It is fat-soluble and is sensitive to light, oxygen, strong acids, and alcoholic alkalis.

Vitamin P: See Bioflavonoids.

Vitamins: Foods containing vitamins A, D, E, F, H, K, P, and the B complex group are necessary in diets to maintain good health.

Volatile oil: Active aromatic oils in plants that evaporate readily.

Wheat Oligosaccharides: Conditioner for hair and skin. A moisturizer.

Whey: A protein supplement, which is an excellent tool for supporting muscle growth and repair, weight loss plans, immune function, and prevention of muscle wasting in catabolic disease states.

Whitehead: Also known as a closed comedone. A collection of sebum and keratin that plugs the opening of the pilosebaceous unit (skin pore) and imbeds itself in the follicular canal under the skin so that it looks like a raised, white bump.

White Pony: The root of this common flower is used to regulate the blood. It relaxes the blood vessels, reduces platelet sticking, nourishes the blood, and helps get the circulation to the skin and extremities.

Wild Cherry Bark: Wild Cherry Bark’s main use is in the treatment of irritating coughs. It is used to treat bronchitis and whooping cough. Its actions include: anti-tussive, expectorant, astringent, nervine, anti-spasmodic, and sedative.

Wild Indigo: Wild Indigo is useful in the treatment of infections and catarrh in the ear, nose and throat. It may be used for laryngitis, tonsillitis, pharyngitis and catarrhal infections. Taken internally it can heal mouth ulcers, gingivitis and help in the control of pyorrhea. Systemically it may be helpful in the treatment of enlarged and inflamed lymph glands and also to reduce fevers. Its actions include: anti-microbial, and anti-catarrhal.

Wild Lettuce Leaf: Effective in herb blends for sore, rough, pimply or sunburned skin.

Wild Oat: Oat Seed is used to treat exhaustion and to stabilize the nervous system. It is described as a stimulating nerve tonic especially good for lethargic individuals.

Wild Yam: Wild Yam is a remedy that can be used to relieve intestinal colic, to soothe diverticulitis, ease dysmenorrhoea and ovarian and uterine pains. It also helps treat rheumatoid arthritis. Its actions include: anti-spasmodic, anti-inflammatory, anti-rheumatic, hepatic, cholagogue, and diaphoretic.

Willow: Willow is an ancient remedy used to treat rheumatism and gout, fevers, and aches and pains of all kinds. It has an analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and tonic action.

Willow Bark Extract: A source of salicin, the chemical that led to the introduction of aspirin, considered to be the natural form and origin of the modern day aspirin. An anti-inflammatory agent delivered to the skin cells in liposomes that enhance penetration through the epidermis. Causes a mild keratolytic effect making it an excellent ingredient for acne treatment products.

Witch Hazel: A common household ingredient. The astringent and anti-inflammatory actions of this herb can be used to help stop bleeding, both internally and externally. It is useful in the easing of hemorrhoids. Witch Hazel also is used to treat bruises, inflamed swellings, and varicose veins. Witch Hazel will control diarrhea and aid in the easing of dysentery.

Wood Betony: Betony is used in the treatment of nervous debility associated with anxiety and tension, such as headaches and neuralgia when they are of nervous origin, but especially those caused by hypertension. Its actions include: Nervine and bitter.

Wood’s Light: Hand-held ultraviolet light filtered through nickel-plated glass. Used to help diagnose fungal and bacterial infections and delineate pigmentary disorders.

Wormwood: It is primarily used as a bitter and therefore has the effect of stimulating and invigorating the whole of the digestive process. It is also a strong remedy for the treatment of worm infestations, especially roundworm and pinworm. It may also be used to help the body deal with fever and infections. Its actions include: bitter, carminative, anti-microbial, and anthelmintic.