| Guys
- Get Fit
| *A
monthly column devoted to helping women and men be their best
and most confident in any situation.
Topics include dress, body
language, attitude and etiquette. |
|
Victoria Seitz, PhD
Image Expert |
|
|
A major phenomenon is happening. We are reverting back
to the old days of fashion. How old? We're back to the days of when the
size of a man's stomach indicated the size of their wallets. Men more and
more are letting whatever they have or don't have show because they don't
know where their waist is or think its somewhere else. Let's make it clear
- men, your pants should land at your waist. Where is your waist? Your waist
is at your navel!
When I do fashion shows for dress for success seminars and use employees
or students as models, it is amazing that about 99% of them think that their
pants should land about their hips. No. Right around your navel is where
they should land and to keep them there please use a belt. You may find
that you may need a long in the pants (I am not saying tall) to handle proper
fit in the groin area as well as for comfort.
Here are some other tips about fit:
- Shirt collars should allow two fingers ease at the
neck.
- Ties should land at the middle of the belt buckle
and the small end should slip through the loop of the back side of the
large end.
- Suit coats, blazers and jackets
should fit smoothly in the back and not inch up around
the neck or if a vented jacket, that it lies smoothly over the derriere.
- Pants should be long enough to have a slight crease
or break at the top of the shoe and slant down about a ¾ of an inch
at the back of the shoe. If cuffed, the pants should break at the top
of the shoe; however, are hemmed straight across with an inch to inch
and a half cuff.
- Pants should fit at the waist with NO Overhang. Men
are just as guilty as women in not wearing the right size. Fit your
waist, not your ego.
- Jacket sleeves should land about one inch below the wrist
bone. Shirts should be about ¼ to ½ inch below the jacket sleeve.
- Belts should be long enough that you can comfortably
buckle them on the third hole.
- Shoes should fit comfortably the first time. Remember when looking
for shoes that you consider shopping in the afternoon since your feet
swell as the day goes on. Also make sure that you have the proper hosiery
with you for the right fit.
- Set in sleeves as those found in a suit or shirt
should fit where the seam lands at the end or slighty
before the end of the shoulder.
- If you have an athletic build, which means that the measurement between
your chest and waist is 7 inches or greater (waist being the smaller
of the two) try fitted shirts, otherwise go with regular shirts
without darts at the waist.
- Pants should fit smoothly over the legs and derriere.
Pants should ride over the hip and thigh area with enough ease to allow
freedom of movement. Inseam pockets should not spread apart.
- Shirts should fit comfortably with enough ease throughout
to permit freedom of movement.
- When sitting, the buttoned jacket should fit loosely
and there should not be any tugging between the arms in the back of
the jacket. As well, there should be ample ease in the armholes. When
standing the jacket should fit smoothly over the front of the wearer.
Finally, the jacket should button at the waist or slightly below.
Victoria
Seitz, PhD is a professor of Marketing at California State University,
San Bernardino and is author of Your Executive Image, AdamsMedia,
Inc, 2000 and Power Dressing, DonJon Publishing, 1991. In addition
to teaching, Dr. Seitz was a fashion coordinator for Burdines, Florida
and in retail management for Saks Fifth Avenue, Phoenix, AZ. Clients of
Dr. Seitz have included Abbott Laboratories, Northern Telecom, Texas Instruments,
Yellow Freight Systems, Sally Beauty Company, the United States Armed
Forces, Travellife magazine, YWCA and Accountants Overload, in addition
to law firms, hotels, newspapers, universities, banks, credit unions,
national and local community and professional organizations nationwide.
To learn more about Dr. Seitz please visit her website at www.cbpa.csusb.edu/vseitz.
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