| Isn't
it time for equal opportunity in foundation shades? Tired of looking for
a foundation that's a match, not a mask? Even today, with all the cosmetic
brands out there fighting for attention, women of color still find it
a special challenge to get the perfect foundation match.
However,
mainstream makeup lines are finally getting hip to the rainbow coalition
that America the beautiful is today. Instead of just darkening foundations
designed for Caucasian skin a few notches, they're developing foundations
that work with the many nuances in Black, Asian, Native American, Hispanic
and multi-ethnic skin tones.
Do
Your Homework
Even
with more choices, Women of color need to do self-evaluation before heading
to the store to find their match. It's likely that your skin, with all
its subtle shadings, is as unique as your fingerprint, so you need to
know its best and weakest points before you go foundation hunting.
First, wash your face gently and pat dry. Take a close look at your bare
skin in a large mirror, preferably next to a good natural light source
like a window. Note if you have any darker areas or spots or if your skin
tone changes around the jaw line, the nose, the forehead or the cheeks.
Are the undertones red, yellow or blue? If you let your skin darken in
the summer are you going to try to match that color or phase it out with
a lighter foundation shade?
Is acne, eczema or allergies a problem? Has your skin developed some dark
or light spots or bumps over the years? Or, is your skin hyper-pigmented
(darker in areas) on some parts of your face or neck? Do you have freckles,
birth marks, scars or under-eye shadows that need minimizing?
These days, it seems that oil-free foundations are generally the fail-safe
solution for most skins - but not all. Combination skin tends to lean
one way or the other. Decide if you want a foundation with light moisturizers
or oil-free, as needed. Dry or aging skin? You'll want a moisture-rich
liquid or cream foundation to control ashiness, plump up lines and combat
dryness.
Finally, what kind of foundation finish do you like? Matte, dewy or moist?
What kind of coverage? maximum, moderate or sheer? Do you prefer liquid,
compact or stick foundations?
Shop
Where Help is Near
Unless
you're replacing your current shade, go to a specialty or department store
where you can get personal service from a trained beauty advisor.
Know
the Basic Rules
Foundation
for women of color should contain a higher level of pigment (color
particles) than formulas designed for Caucasian skin. Ask the Beauty Advisor
to show you what she has in highly pigmented foundation shades. Test a
few to see what works best for you.
If your skin has a lot of yellow, your best foundation will likely be
in the golden range.
If your skin is medium to deep, look for foundations in the orange-red-brown
range. Note: if hyper-pigmentation or dark spots are a problem, a red/orange-based
foundation helps cancel out the 'blue' tones of the darker areas. However,
if your skin falls at the darkest end of the spectrum, you'll actually
want a slight blue undertone in the foundation for a perfect match.
Test on more than one area of your face if you have darker/lighter
areas to make sure your foundation will even things out. Test foundation
along the neck and the jaw line if your face is lighter or darker than
your neck; you want to reach a happy medium between the two.
If you need heavier coverage, the new, very popular stick foundations
are a great choice to smooth out uneven tones, freckles, discolorations
or dark spots. Another beauty of stick formulas is that you can carry
one in your purse for touch-ups.
Consider buying a concealer and pressed or loose powder at the same time
you buy foundation to make sure they all match.
Powders, loose or pressed, should be matched to your foundation as closely
as possible. Translucent (no color) powder can also be used to bring down
the shine without adding color. Avoid powders with mica or talc because
they accentuate ashy shadows.
Musts
to Avoid
Be
wary of foundations that promise a "luminous" glow - some of the "special
effects" in these formulas will just make your skin look ashy and grey.
Save the sparkle and shine for eyes or lips.
Custom
Color - You're Worth It
Even
though you might find your exact match in a ready-blended foundation,
at some point, do try out a brand that will blend a one-of-a-kind foundation
just for you. You can often get a free preview sample of your shade match
to try out for several days before you commit to buy.
From the perfect foundation, all things beautiful will come. You have
the ideal canvas for eye, lip and cheek colors that flatter your unique
skin tone and eyes. In the weeks to follow, revisit BeautyWalk to learn
how women of color can celebrate the joy of color - their color - in today's
most flattering shades.
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