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Thermal Reconditioning
(Japanese Straightening)

by Michael Ricca, Lamas Beauty Magazine Contributor
 

What type of hair is not suitable for TR?


My philosophy on hair education is that it must be creative while at the same time being useful for the client. I take a pragmatic approach to hair, which eliminates a lot of the fluff seen in a lot of today's education. However, I do not feel that usefulness means no creativity. On the contrary, I feel the artistic aspect of the Hair Business is just as important and essential as practicality.

Michael Ricca of Heaven & Earth - Hair International
Michael Ricca,  President,
Heaven & Earth Hair International

» Lightened or colour treated hair.

When you lighten or colour your hair you will almost always use H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide). H2O2 destroys some of the sulfur bonds in your hair. How many of these bonds have been destroyed depends on . .

     1) The strength of the product

     2) How light your hair has been taken from it's natural colour (*see below)

     3) How often you have coloured the hair that will be receiving the TR service

An experienced hair designer will be able to know if you have enough sulfur bonds in your hair to be able to get the TR service. They will do this by seeing and feeling your hair. Unfortunately, it cannot be done over the internet or phone.

  • Some coloured hair will not be able to receive the TR service.


  • Some coloured hair will need pre-conditioning treatments.


  • In some cases the hair designer may adjust the TR chemicals for some types of coloured hair.


  • Some coloured hair will have no problem in getting TR.
* How much your hair has been lightened cannot be determined with your eyes. Colours often lighten your hair and then add colour over the top so that your hair does not appear as lightened as it actually is.

» Hydroxide relaxed hair

Hydroxide based relaxors/perms sometimes referred to as "Lye" based relaxors/perms are often used to straighten African type hair. These relaxors work well on super curly hair because they break down the carbon in the hair, thus softening it as it straightens. The problem is that they also destroy the sulfur in the hair. We have known for a long time now that Hydroxide and Thio do not mix - the hair breaks. So unfortunately if your hair has been relaxed using a Hydroxide based chemical TR in highly NOT recommended.

One person had wrote to me and said that a salon cut off a few strands from her head and then tested the TR on it. Later they said she was able to get the TR service. I caution people about this because quite often breakage of the hair due to mixing Thio and Hydroxide does not occur immediately after the service, it may take a week or longer to start and will occur ever time you comb, brush or shampoo your hair. A strand test cannot accurately judge the reaction you will have. Better to have a small section done on your hair and wait a month to see what happens to that before doing the whole head.

» TR and African type hair

Because the main chemical in TR is Thio it may not be able to soften strong African type hair sufficiently to get good results. On the other hand, milder, softer African hair types may react quite well to TR but again the consultation is quite important because some African type hair will respond well to the procedure and others will not.

(More to come)


Thermal Reconditioning Part 1, What is Thermal Reconditioning?

Thermal Reconditioning Part 2, What type of hair is not suitable for TR?


Discuss this topic with others right now at the Salon!

Michael Ricca has been teaching Hair Designers for almost 20 years traveling the world providing hair education to students in several different countries.

Micheal has trained and maintains a team of educators whom are located in various countries throughout the world. A primary personal goal of his is to not only enhance the professional skills and outlook of his students but to also make a positive difference in their lives.

Micheal is currently the President of Heaven & Earth - Hair International. Heaven & Earth has a complete educational system designed by him specifically for today's students and unique needs. The system covers all aspects of hair education, including courses in Hair Cutting, Colouring, Perming and Current Fashion styles.

For more information click on www.heaven-earth.com.