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How The Chemical Is Applied
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The longer the relaxing solution is left on, the
longer the effects will last and the straighter the hair will be.
However, the longer the solution is left on, the more risk there is of
damage to the hair.
Avoid combing through your hair while it is being straightened. The
straightening process affects the hair's natural elasticity. When it is
combed out, it may stretch out to over twice its normal length and it
is very fragile and easy to break.
Neutralizer
After the relaxer is completely shampooed and rinsed out with
warm water (it can not be hot or cold and must be warm) a
neutralizer solution is added to halt the relaxing process and restore
the pH balance to the hair. The neutralizer is also known as a
stabilizer or fixative. The neutralizer for a thio type of relaxer will
actually re-form the cysteine cross-bonds in their new position and
rehardens the hair.
From the time that the relaxing chemicals is removed and the hair is
shampooed and than stabilized, the hair is extremely fragile and
should be handled carefully.
Sometimes the chemicals will leave a reddish cast on the hair.
When this happens the stylist can apply a special color rinse to
remove the red cast. Sometimes this cast is not evident until the
hair has been dried. The color rinse may be applied to dry hair as
well.
Conditioned, Dried & Set
It is advisable to use a good conditioner to restore some of the
natural oils that have been removed by the chemicals. The
conditioner is applied after the neutralizer is rinsed out and after the
hair is first towel dried. After the conditioner is applied, the hair can
be set in rollers and gently dried or styled and air dried.
Post Relaxing Treatment
Once hair has been relaxed it will require special ongoing treatment
to protect the hair and maintain the effects of the straightening. If
the newly relaxed hair is not treated with special care it can become
brittle and stiff and "see through". Relaxed hair is more porous and
tends to hold on to dulling residue. Therefore it is very important to
rinse out shampoo and other hair products thoroughly.
Relaxed hair will also break more easily. Use a good detangling/
leave in conditioning product like Phytologie #7 and a wide pick
with smooth teeth to detangle wet hair. Work from the bottom of
your hair up towards the roots.
Regular deep conditioning is a must on hair that is
chemically relaxed. Plan on doing a deep conditioning
treatment once or twice a week and more if your hair
needs it. You can use a high quality deep conditioning
treatment like Edwin Paul Deep Conditioner,
Phytologie's Phytocitrus Mask, Aveda's
Curessence or Deep Penetrating Hair
Revitalizer, Aveda's Beautifying Oil or whip up a
special hot oil treatment.
Newly relaxed hair tends to become a lot drier. Use a
moisturizing shampoo designed for chemically treated
hair like Phytologie's Phytocidre Shampoo for chemically
processed hair, Edwin Paul's Luxury Shampoo or ARTec's
Smoothing shampoo. If you prefer an all natural chemical free
shampoo designed to help chemically treated hair check out Paul
Pender's Walnut Oil Shampoo and Burt's Bees Avocado
Butter Treatment.
Use a good rinse out or leave-in conditioner as well. Chemically
treated hair requires more careful and delicate treatment. If your
hair does not respond well to the extra deep conditioning
treatments you may want to do some moisture reconstructing
treatments by using products like Edwin Paul's Moisture
Reconstructor.
The only sure way to restore the appearance of chemically
processed hair is through the application of good conditioning
products. Chemical processing can erode the hair and damage
the cuticle.
Conditioners will smooth the damaged outer surface of the hair by
coating the hair and by putting back oils and proteins that chemical
processing strips off.
When possible, limit the use of hot blow dryers and hot styling
tools. If you must use a blow dryer, use on the coolest heat and
apply a good protective leave in conditioner first.
Hot Oil Treatment
Heat enough olive oil to saturate your hair in a saucepan or in the
microwave. Make sure it is just warm to the touch and not too hot.
Dab the warm olive oil on the roots of your hair with a cotton ball.
Wrap the hair in a plastic shower cap, cover with a hot towel and
wait for at least 30 minutes. Shampoo and rinse. For extra
conditioning, towel dry the hair and then apply a good leave in
conditioner.
When possible, leave the olive oil on the hair for longer periods of
time. Overnight is a great option (although somewhat messy).
Chemical Hair Straightening Faqs Part 3., General Relaxing Faqs
Chemical Hair Straightening Faqs Part 1., Introduction
Discuss this topic with others right now at the Salon Discussion Board!
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