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Sacred
and rare . . . Fragrance made for
the gods
B.C./A.D.
– Frankincense & Myrrh. Fragrance
is as old as mankind, but let’s start here,
with that famous biblical combo. Up till
now and for 1000 years to come, fragrance
ingredients were limited to aromatic plant
resins, woods, spices and herbs. Brought
by boat and caravan from the Middle and
Far East, these items were precious and
costly. They were offered as gifts and
tributes to gods, emperors and tyrants (often
one and the same). The 3 Wise Men brought
gold, frankincense and myrrh. Today,
we’d still thrill over the gold but who
wants tree sap!
When
knighthood was in fashion . . . so
was fragrance
1100-1300
– The Crusades. Although justified
as religious wars for Christians to wrest
the Holy Land from Muslim control, the Holy
Wars were also great opportunities to hold
raiding parties. Spices, bath ointments,
and essences brought home from the Crusades
started a new industry – the European perfume
trade. Centered in Venice and Naples, perfumery
flourished there for the next 200 years.
Distilled
to its essence . . . fragrances enters a
new world
1400’s
– Distillation. The Arabs discovered
distillation --the process of concentrating
fragrant essences -- thereby making them
vastly easier to ship and a lot less perishable.
Around the same time, the distillation of
wine was perfected also, which led to the
mass production of alcohol or “spirit water”
– as healing elixirs. As we’ll see, distillation
was to have a major impact on perfumery,
in 17th Century Hungary.
France
takes over
1500’s
– France Emerges. Closely linked to
the leather industry (because gloves and
other items were treated with fragrant oils
to clean) and the soap industry in Marseilles,
perfumery prospered in the south of France.
Grasse had the ideal climate for growing
the flowers, herbs and citruses brought
originally from India and Persia. Tuberose,
jasmin, cloves, and lavender grew wild.
Today. these, and many other fragrance products,
are still grown and processed in the region.
Although methods have improved, the basic
processes of distillation, expression, and
extraction are still practiced today at
Grasse. The pomp and splendor at the French
courts of the 16th, 17th
and 18th centuries advanced perfumery
with constant demands for new and unusual
scents. Fragrances were also a social necessity
since hygiene was still primitive and bathing
considered dangerous to the health.
 In
Eastern Europe, an intoxicating idea
1600’s
– Hungarian Water. Perhaps the idea
came from a clever monk, an old herb woman,
or an alchemist in his attic. Whoever it
was, he/she combined, for the first time,
a rosemary extract with distilled alcohol
for stability– and the forerunner of today’s
eau de cologne was born.
From
Cologne . . . cologne
1792
– The First Eau de Cologne. The ancient
German city of Cologne is the birthplace
of the first true cologne. Stablized with
alcohol, a crisp, citrus blend was created,
called 4711. An eternally fresh
classic that is still worn today by men
and women everywhere.
The
Modern Masters Emerge
1917
– Chypre by Coty. Originally created
as an individual fragrance by master perfumer,
Rene Coty, this unique blend of moss and
spices also came to describe a an entire
category of fragrances like it in years
to come.
1921
– Chanel #5. The first perfume that
can truly be called modern After World
War I, aldehydes, the first aroma chemicals,
become available. Clean and ozone-like,
aldehydes were unlike anything nature created.
The very modern Coco Chanel endorsed them
for all time by including them in her famous
Chanel # 5. Hundreds of aroma chemicals
have followed since Chanel’s innovation,
lending excitement, complexity and stability
to modern fragrances. Today’s vast array
of different scents would be impossible
without them.
1925
– Shalimar. This sensually rich oriental
blend by Guerlain became one of the great
fragrances of the 20th Century.
Its provocative notes instantly take you
back to the jazz age and the craze for Rudolph
Valentino and the sheiks of Araby. .
 1945
– Vent Vert and L’Air du Temps. After the grim years of World
War Two, fragrances from the late forties and early fifties announced
the liberation of women from the heavy scents of yesteryear. These
two delicate floral essences in particular were forerunners of today’s
trend to the fresh, light and natural.
1952
– Youth Dew. The first concentrated
perfume oil. Estee Lauder knew women
would respond to it. And they did -- launching
her worldwide beauty empire.
1970’s
– The Designers. The 70’s saw American
designers come into their own. Fragrance
became the vehicle to reach millions of
women who didn’t shop in designer departments
but loved the idea of having something from
Bill Blass, Halston, or Oscar de la Renta.
The Euro-designers fought back with Opium
by Yves St. Laurent, Chloe by Lagerfeld,
Gucci by Gucci, Cardin from
Pierre Cardin, and many more.
 1980’s
– The Blatants. As women entered the workforce in droves, Reagan-omics
led to power suits and power fragrances. Remember Dynasty? The
80’s gave us Giorgio, Poison, and Obsession
---the essence of the time in a bottle.
1990’s
– The Sheers. Fresh, pretty, light,
these fragrances sport unique florals, citruses,
and complex fruit and food notes made possible
by new technology. Escape and CK1,
from Calvin Klein, L’Eau d’Issey, Armani’s
Acqua di Gio, Romance by Ralph
Lauren, Estee Lauder’s Pleasures,
and Pure by Alfred Sung were leaders
of the new trend. Too fresh on the scene
to be passé any time soon, these are the
fragrances many will still be wearing into
the 21st century
2000
AND 1 – What’s ahead? Expect a continuation
of sheer delights, but less “transparent,”
with headier florals and more
complexity. Try the new DKNY,
-- it’s ahead of its time. Also look
for fragrances with added benefits - non-drying
formulas that smooth and soften the skin,
and ingredients that improve your mood
and well-being. Two to try now are AromaTonic
by Lancome that combines a body treatment
and fragrance in one and Relaxing
from Shiseido that promises to calm and
perfume you at the same time. In the next
1000 years, who knows? Perhaps fragrances
that renew themselves and stay fresh all
day…all week…all year! Or maybe more fragrances
will return to their ancient roots to heal
and comfort, even beyond the aromatherapy
promises of today.
As
adventurous as the 2lst century of fragrance
is sure to be, the wonderful pleasures of
fragrances past remain eternally alluring,
too. The classics that have endured, decade
after decade, will also offer something
new to the next generation that rediscovers
them in the years to come.
Irene
Heiney is a highly-respected new product
development consultant to the beauty and
fragrance industry. She has developed fragrances
for Revlon and many other cosmetic companies
worldwide. Her own personal favorite fragrances
are Chanel #19 and Fidji.
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