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Sacred
and rare . . . Fragrance made for the gods
B.C./A.D.
– Frankincense & Myrrh. Fragrance is as old as mankind, but let’s
start here, with that famous biblical combo. Up till now and for 1000
years to come, fragrance ingredients were limited to aromatic plant resins,
woods, spices and herbs. Brought by boat and caravan from the Middle
and Far East, these items were precious and costly. They were offered
as gifts and tributes to gods, emperors and tyrants (often one and the
same). The 3 Wise Men brought gold, frankincense and myrrh. Today,
we’d still thrill over the gold but who wants tree sap!
When
knighthood was in fashion . . . so was fragrance
1100-1300
– The Crusades. Although justified as religious wars for Christians
to wrest the Holy Land from Muslim control, the Holy Wars were also great
opportunities to hold raiding parties. Spices, bath ointments, and essences
brought home from the Crusades started a new industry – the European
perfume trade. Centered in Venice and Naples, perfumery flourished there
for the next 200 years.
Distilled
to its essence . . . fragrances enters a new world
1400’s
– Distillation. The Arabs discovered distillation --the process
of concentrating fragrant essences -- thereby making them vastly easier
to ship and a lot less perishable. Around the same time, the distillation
of wine was perfected also, which led to the mass production of alcohol
or “spirit water” – as healing elixirs. As we’ll see, distillation was
to have a major impact on perfumery, in 17th Century Hungary.
France
takes over
1500’s
– France Emerges. Closely linked to the leather industry (because
gloves and other items were treated with fragrant oils to clean) and the
soap industry in Marseilles, perfumery prospered in the south of France.
Grasse had the ideal climate for growing the flowers, herbs and citruses
brought originally from India and Persia. Tuberose, jasmin, cloves, and
lavender grew wild. Today. these, and many other fragrance products, are
still grown and processed in the region. Although methods have improved,
the basic processes of distillation, expression, and extraction are still
practiced today at Grasse. The pomp and splendor at the French courts
of the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries
advanced perfumery with constant demands for new and unusual scents. Fragrances
were also a social necessity since hygiene was still primitive and bathing
considered dangerous to the health.
 In
Eastern Europe, an intoxicating idea
1600’s
– Hungarian Water. Perhaps the idea came from a clever monk, an old
herb woman, or an alchemist in his attic. Whoever it was, he/she combined,
for the first time, a rosemary extract with distilled alcohol for stability–
and the forerunner of today’s eau de cologne was born.
From
Cologne . . . cologne
1792 –
The First Eau de Cologne. The ancient German city of Cologne is the
birthplace of the first true cologne. Stablized with alcohol, a crisp,
citrus blend was created, called 4711. An eternally fresh classic
that is still worn today by men and women everywhere.
The
Modern Masters Emerge
1917 –
Chypre by Coty. Originally created as an individual fragrance by
master perfumer, Rene Coty, this unique blend of moss and spices also
came to describe a an entire category of fragrances like it in years to
come.
1921 –
Chanel #5. The first perfume that can truly be called modern After
World War I, aldehydes, the first aroma chemicals, become available. Clean
and ozone-like, aldehydes were unlike anything nature created. The very
modern Coco Chanel endorsed them for all time by including them in her
famous Chanel # 5. Hundreds of aroma chemicals have followed since
Chanel’s innovation, lending excitement, complexity and stability to modern
fragrances. Today’s vast array of different scents would be impossible
without them.
1925 –
Shalimar. This sensually rich oriental blend by Guerlain became one
of the great fragrances of the 20th Century. Its provocative
notes instantly take you back to the jazz age and the craze for Rudolph
Valentino and the sheiks of Araby. .
 1945
– Vent Vert and L’Air du Temps. After the grim years of World War
Two, fragrances from the late forties and early fifties announced the
liberation of women from the heavy scents of yesteryear. These two delicate
floral essences in particular were forerunners of today’s trend to the
fresh, light and natural.
1952 –
Youth Dew. The first concentrated perfume oil. Estee Lauder
knew women would respond to it. And they did -- launching her worldwide
beauty empire.
1970’s
– The Designers. The 70’s saw American designers come into their own.
Fragrance became the vehicle to reach millions of women who didn’t shop
in designer departments but loved the idea of having something from Bill
Blass, Halston, or Oscar de la Renta. The Euro-designers fought back with
Opium by Yves St. Laurent, Chloe by Lagerfeld, Gucci
by Gucci, Cardin from Pierre Cardin, and many more.
 1980’s
– The Blatants. As women entered the workforce in droves, Reagan-omics
led to power suits and power fragrances. Remember Dynasty? The
80’s gave us Giorgio, Poison, and Obsession ---the
essence of the time in a bottle.
1990’s
– The Sheers. Fresh, pretty, light, these fragrances sport unique
florals, citruses, and complex fruit and food notes made possible by new
technology. Escape and CK1, from Calvin Klein, L’Eau
d’Issey, Armani’s Acqua di Gio, Romance by Ralph Lauren,
Estee Lauder’s Pleasures, and Pure by Alfred Sung were leaders
of the new trend. Too fresh on the scene to be passé any time soon, these
are the fragrances many will still be wearing into the 21st
century
2000 AND
1 – What’s ahead? Expect a continuation of sheer delights, but less
“transparent,” with headier florals and more complexity.
Try the new DKNY, -- it’s ahead of its time. Also look for
fragrances with added benefits - non-drying formulas that smooth and soften
the skin, and ingredients that improve your mood and well-being.
Two to try now are AromaTonic by Lancome that combines a body treatment
and fragrance in one and Relaxing from Shiseido that promises to
calm and perfume you at the same time. In the next 1000 years, who knows?
Perhaps fragrances that renew themselves and stay fresh all day…all week…all
year! Or maybe more fragrances will return to their ancient roots to heal
and comfort, even beyond the aromatherapy promises of today.
As adventurous
as the 2lst century of fragrance is sure to be, the wonderful pleasures
of fragrances past remain eternally alluring, too. The classics that have
endured, decade after decade, will also offer something new to the next
generation that rediscovers them in the years to come.
Irene
Heiney is a highly-respected new product development consultant to
the beauty and fragrance industry. She has developed fragrances for Revlon
and many other cosmetic companies worldwide. Her own personal favorite
fragrances are Chanel #19 and Fidji.
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