Wide-Set Eyes...are more than one eye-length apart.

Your Goal: Make your eyes look closer together by emphasizing
the inner third of the eye.

Line: Starting at the inner corners, line the eye completely, top and bottom.

Accent: Apply light shade on the outer 2/3 of the lid, lashes to browbone, brushing towards the outer corners.

Define: Sweep your deep color on the inside third of the lid, brushing towards the inner corner of eyes. Shadow from lashes to just below the browbone. Blend edges into the light shade to get a soft gradation of color.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Center a little highlighter just under the brow in the middle of the eye.

Brows & Lashes: Accent color a little heavier at the beginning of brows. Don't extend brow color beyond your natural line. Apply lashcolor evenly on upper and lower lashes, with an extra coat or two on the lashes closest to the inner corner of the eye.

Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-Set Eyes ... are recessed or shadowed by a prominent brow bone. Lids may be hidden and the eyebrows appear close to the eyes.

Your Goal: Make the eyes look more open, less recessed.

Line: Using a fine line, outline upper and lower lids evenly.

Accent: Sweep light color over the entire lid, lashes to brows.

Define: Stroke your deep shade just ABOVE (not in) the eye's natural crease. Blend lightly at the edges to soften. This brings the lid portion 'forward' optically.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Brush a little highlighter in and along the lid crease. Do not blend.

Brows & Lashes: Raise the plane of the brow line by skimming brow color lightly along the tops of brows. Since pale brows make eyes look even more recessed, select brow color a shade or two darker than your natural tone. Mascara top and bottom lashes lavishly.

Prominent ("Bette Davis") Eyes

Prominent Eyes ...are large and may appear to bulge, with prominent upper lids.

Your Goal: Bring the eyes in a little and minimize the top lids.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, with a slightly wider band of liner along the lashes of the lower lid.

Accent: Sweep light shadow horizontally across the browbone to take the focus off the lid area.

Define: Sweep a horizontal band of deep shadow across the whole lid, extending from the inner corner to just beyond the outer edge of the eye. This subtly elongates and minimizes prominent lids.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a dot of highlighter below the arch of the brow.

Brows & Lashes: Emphasize the highest point of the brow to counteract the roundness of the eye shape. Lightly mascara top lashes, concentrating more color on lower lashes.

Round Eyes

Round Eyes ....are shaped almost perfectly oval, not deep-set or overly prominent.

Your Goal: To give eyes more elongation.

Line: Outline both lids evenly, top and bottom, extending eyeliner just beyond the outer corners.

Accent: Focus light color on the outer section of the browbone, brushing outward to elongate the eye. Cover area from browline to lid crease.

Define: Concentrate deep shade at the edge of the eyes, extending color out beyond the eye to elongate.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay a little highlighter on the highest edge of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Extend the outside edges of the brows. Creating an arch will also make the eye look less round. Concentrate mascara on the top lashes, especially on the outer corners of the eyes.

Down-Slanting Eyes

Down-slanting eyes...are eyes that seem to droop downward at the outer edges.

Your Goal: "Lift" the outside edges for a livelier look.

Line: Line upper and lower lids. On the lower lid only, slant the liner upward, extending a bit beyond the outside corner of the eye

Accent: Brush light shade along the browbone, concentrating most
Of the color on the outer edges and slanting upward.

Define: Apply deep color to the outer third of the lid, from lashes to crease. Stroke upward at the outer edge to create a lifting effect.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a touch of highlighter to the highest point of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Accent (or create) a gentle arch to give the brow a slight upslant. Focus most of your lashcolor on the upper lashes, especially at the outside corners.

Hooded Eyes

Hooded Eyes ...are eyes with sagging lids and folds of skin around them.

Your Goal: To minimize the hooded effect.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the lids, upper and lower.

Accent: Sweep light color on the highest point of the browbone,
above the crease.

Define: Smooth deep color horizontally over hooded area, (slightly
above the crease of the eyelid).

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay highlight over the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Shape brows into an arch to "lift' the eye further.
Concentrate most of your mascara on upper and lower lashes from
inner corner to the middle of the eye.

Small Eyes

Small Eyes...are smaller than average, or when compared to the rest of
your features.

Your Goal: Make eyes look larger.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the entire eye. Use a light to medium shade of eyeliner
To avoid "closing" in the eye and making it look even smaller.

Accent: Brush a light shade over the entire lid from lashes to browbone to "open" the entire eye.

Define: Stroke deep shade horizontally, starting from the inner corner, along the lid crease. Extend color slightly past the outer eye corner to widen.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Stroke highlighter under the browline, blending into your light color.

Brows & Lashes: Brush brows up and extend the line of the brows slightly past the eye. Thin brows make eyes look larger. Apply mascara generously on top lashes and lightly on lower lashes.

Asian Eyes

Asian Eyes....are almond-shaped with little or no natural crease in the lid.

Your Goal: Create contrast between eye, lid and browbone.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, keeping line close to lashes.

Accent: Bring out the browbone with your light shade.

Define: Create the effect of a crease in the lid, by starting your deep color
at the inside corner of the eye and drawing it horizontally midway between the lash
line and the brow bone. Blend to avoid an obvious 'stripe' of shadow.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add highlight on the outer third of browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Giving the brow a slightly arched shape 'opens' the eye. If eyes are small, also extend the edges of browline. Apply mascara generously to upper and lower lashes.

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About Peter Lamas