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Waiting
for a blemish to heal? Or a good night’s sleep to erase those
darn circles from under your eyes?
There’s
no reason to put your social life on hold – or look any less
radiant than you actually feel.
Fashion
technology, after all, has brought us far more than
matching handbags and designer cell phones – it’s delivered
the products, tools and knowledge to keep our faces looking
their absolute, flawless best!
The
secret? Choosing the right concealer and application tools
– and knowing how to put them to good use. Read on!
--Peter
Lamas |
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Putting
Your Best Face Forward . . .
Like
all great weapons, concealers should come with a warning: Avoid using
until properly trained! Undue caution? Not on your life. When it comes
to makeup, few things are as frightful as a lovely face that’s fallen
victim to a botched concealer job!
Choosing
Wisely
 Not
all concealers are created equal. Concealers come in various textures
and shades – each designed for specific types of skin. Choosing the right
one is half the battle!
The
Right Model
When
choosing a concealer, it’s important to realize that it’s your skin –
and not your preference – that should dictate whether you choose a concealer
in the form of a wand, pot, stick or pencil.
Wands,
for example, are best suited for those with lighter skin, because they
deliver a dewy, sheer type of coverage that won’t overpower fairer skin
tones.
Pots
and sticks, on the other hand, are ideal choices for olive and darker
skin tones, which need the stronger, more opaque coverage that such concealers
provide.
Pencils,
which can be used for most skin types, are best reserved for only the
smallest of touch-ups – like pin-sized blemishes – and lip lines.
And
for those with dry skin, there are cream concealers, which combine coverage
(although less than a pot or stick!) with needed moisture.
A
good way to test a concealer’s coverage is to dab a small amount
on the vein found on your inner wrist. If the concealer covers the vein’s
bluish tint, it’s likely to camouflage unwelcome colors on your face!
The
Right Color
Concealers
are meant to conceal – not to draw attention to themselves, or the area
they’re meant to hide. The best way to ensure that they do just that is
to choose a color that’s a half-shade lighter than your skin’s natural
tone.
As
yellow is the only tone that appears naturally in human skin, you’ll want
to choose a yellow-based concealer (which is especially helpful beneath
the eyes, as yellow cancels out bluish-purple tones) and avoid those with
undertones of pink, peach and orange.
There
is a place for concealers in color-correcting tones – namely green and
mauve: Green cancels out the redness found in acne scars, blemishes and
birthmarks; and mauve counteracts overly yellow skin tones.
To
test the shade of a concealer – other than a color-correcting one – stand
in natural lighting and place a small amount on your inner neck, next
to your ear. If the color is a half-shade lighter there, you’ve found
your shade!
Some people
like to mix their concealer with their foundation to ensure a flawless
blend of colors.
A
Choice of Accessories
Once
you've chosen the right type and shade, you'll want to add the best application
tools to your arsenal.
The best tools, depending on your preference and needs, are your fingertips
- namely the middle finger or ring finger, a wedge-shaped makeup sponge.
A small, slightly pointed or square, nylon makeup brush helps to blend
evenly without smearing (natural brushes will only soak up the concealer).
Putting
It All Together
The
first step in putting it all together, is to prep your face by
applying an eye cream or gel to your undereye area and a moisturizer to
the rest of your face, and allowing a few minutes for both to absorb.
Then, as an added precaution, gently blot your face with a tissue to ensure
that the surface is dry, as well as smooth and moisturized.
Moisturizing is an important step, as it helps the concealer adhere to
the skin without slipping.
To apply concealer to the undereye area, place two or three equi-spaced
dabs of concealer, starting just beneath the inner corner of the eye and
following the sloping curve to the point parallel to the iris.
Blend the concealer into the undereye area - extending it just short of
the outer corners of the eye to avoid accentuating the fine lines found
there. To do this, you'll want to use a wedge-shaped makeup sponge or
your middle or index finger and employ a gentle, dabbing motion called
stippling.
By using this technique, you'll avoid unnecessary wear and tear on your
eye's delicate skin and ensure that the concealer is placed most effectively
in the undereye area.
At this point, you should also cover blemishes - or naturally occurring
colorations such as freckles or birthmarks - by using your makeup brush
to apply concealer via small, circular motions.
Be especially careful when applying concealer in the lip area, however,
as it can interfere with lip color!
Once the concealer has been applied, you should follow with your foundation,
eye makeup -- being careful to avoid dirtying the concealer with stray
sprinklings of eyeshadow and mascara -- and blush. You'll then want to
set the makeup with a light dusting of powder. (See our story titled Laying
the Right Foundation for more information.)
For times when undereye circles are especially dark, it may be necessary
to lightly apply an additional amount of concealer after the foundation
and makeup.
Of course, every theme has a variation. Some people like to apply their
concealer after their foundation and eye makeup, rather than before.
The secret is to find the technique that works best for you!
When
A Concealer Isn’t Enough!
When
it comes to blemishes, no one wants to worsen the situation by clogging
their pores. In such cases, consider using a water-based concealer with
a built-in acne medication -- or try these tricks of the trade used by
many of the world’s top makeup artists. They’re guaranteed to make many
a blemish vanish!
Tricks Of The Trade! |
- Disinfect the blemish by placing a septic stick on it for
about 30 seconds
- Take the red out by holding a Visine-treated cotton ball
on it for one-to-two minutes
- Repeat the second step if necessary
- For minor inflammation or swelling due to clogged pores,
dab a bit of Preparation H onto the area and leave it on for two-to-three
minutes before applying makeup.
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