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Cheeky! Choosing the Right Cheek Color Formula Right For You
| 
Blusher
is one of the hardest cosmetics to apply. It must be blended perfectly
so there's no harsh edges and your best features are subtly enhanced.
Choosing the right color for your skin tone is essential. The right
color will give you a healthy glow. The wrong color will leave you
looking drained or overdone. Caution: Know your best features. Emphasize
beautiful cheekbones, a high forehead or a perfect chin by using
blusher to subtly highlight them.
Look
at the whole picture: Always complement or match blusher to your
lipstick color as well as your clothes.
Cheekcolor
should be applied after foundation (or on clean, bare skin, if your
skin looks good without foundation. Be sure to apply a thin layer
of pressed or loose power on bare skin first, then blusher, to keep
oily areas from causing blush to get blotchy or streak.) --Peter
Lamas |
Blush
Formulations -- Pick the one right for you! Powder.
Creme. Cheek Pencil. Bronzer. Tinted Moisturizer
There's
a million ways to blush out there. Go to a local cosmetic - counter and
try on a few formulas from your favorite brands, keeping your skin type
- oily, normal or dry - in mind. Some tips before you buy:
Powder
Blush. The great all-time favorite. Perfect for any skintype. Sheer
and natural-looking. Convenient for touchups during the day. Because it's
sheer, it's easy to layer using two or more colors. Many women use a beige
or cocoa-brown tone to accent cheekbones and temples and slim the sides
of the nose, then overlay it with a cheeky color for extra glow.
Creme
Blush. A great way to blush for normal to dry skin. Creme offers more
intense color than powder, so use sparingly and blend well. Especially
nice for evening, under candlelight. Since creme formulas usually have
the most moisturizers and/or oils, they cling better and tend to last
longer on the skin. Some women use creme blush as a 'base,' then brush
a light veil of matching powder blush over it for an all-day or all-night
glow.
Liquid
or Gel. Beautifully lasting. Many are oil-free which make them a better
choice for oily skin than a creme blush. Some are water-resistant, too.
Practice makes perfect. Start with a tiny amount on your fingertips or
a sponge and build-up color gradually for best results.
Cheek
Pencils. Great for beginners because you have lots of control. Oily
skin alert: pencils are often formulated with extra moisturizers and emollients
to keep them soft and blendable. Look for oil-free formulas. Stroke on
and use your fingers to blend to a sheer veil of color.
Bronzers.
Liquid, powder, gel or creme. Instead of a rosy glow, another option is
a sun-kissed look. Bronzers are ideal for faking or enhancing the tanned,
golden glow of a week in Bermuda. Like liquid blush, bronzers take a little
practice.
Use
as directed - sparingly - practicing until you get the hang of it. Bronzer
is especially flattering to medium and deep-toned complexions. Fair-skinned
types should pick only the lightest shades, even if you have a tan, then
blend to the sheerest hint of color.
Tinted
Moisturizers. Another option for full-face glowing. Tinted
moisturizers are a good 2-in-1 choice for weekends, active sports, vacations
and other times when you want just a little color-plus the added bonus
of moisture protection, too. Since there's usually more moisturizer than
color in these formulas, normal to oily skin should pick an oil-free formula
and use sparingly to avoid a too-shiny look
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How
to choose your colors -- Glow hot or stay cool?
Contrary
to popular belief, whatever your skin tone, fair, medium, or deep, you
can blush in almost any color - but it's the intensity of color that can
make or break the look. If the color is too deep or intense, it can look
garish on light skins. If it's too faint, the color can disappear on medium
to deep-toned skin.
If
your skin has a cool cast, your best blush will probably be on the cool-toned
side.
A
rich rose for example, rather than a hot pink. If your skin has warm golden
or olive tones, your best blush probably falls on the warm side, too.
| Your
Best Way to Blush Guide |
| Cool-Toned
Skin |
Warm-Toned
Skin |
| If
you look best in these fashion colors: blue, acqua, green, lavender,
plum and other cool water tones… |
If you look best in these fashion colors: peach, pink, orange, red,
olive-green and and other warm earth-tones… |
| Get
a rush from your blush in cool tones of Plum, Wine, Crimson, Blue-Red,
Pastel Pink, TerraCotta, Peach, Rose. |
Get
a rush from your blush in warm tones of Hot Pink, Coral, Warm Red,
Bronze, Brown. |
|
Blush Intensity According to Skin Tone:
Fair: Light to Medium Intensity
Medium: Medium Intensity
Deep: Medium to Deep Intensity |
From
Cheek to Chic: How to Apply Blush the Peter Lamas Way
Blusher
is one of the hardest cosmetics to apply. It must be blended perfectly
so there's no harsh edges and your best features are subtly enhanced.
Choosing the right color for your skin tone is essential. The right color
will give you a healthy glow. The wrong color will leave you looking drained
or overdone. Caution: Know your best features. Emphasize beautiful cheekbones,
a high forehead or a perfect chin by using blusher to subtly highlight
them.
Look
at the whole picture: Always complement or match blusher to your lipstick
color as well as your clothes.
Cheekcolor
should be applied after foundation (or on clean, bare skin, if your skin
looks good without foundation. Be sure to apply a thin layer of pressed
or loose power on bare skin first, then blusher, to keep oily areas from
causing blush to get blotchy or streak.)
How
to Apply Your Formula Perfectly
In
General:
For
a sculpted, sophisticated look: First, find your cheekbones by sucking
in the cheeks. Feel along the edge of the cheekbone. This is where you'll
place cheek color. Never apply color above the cheekbone area. It will
interfere with the eye area and actually make skin under the eyes look
puffy. Done correctly, the final effect is to make cheekbones more prominent
and enhance your other features.
For
a soft, diffused glow: Smile to reveal the "apples" of your
cheeks - they're right in the middle of the face. Apply color horizontally,
over this "apple" area and blend lightly. As always, keep blush
at least one and one-half inches away from the nose and never brush color
near the eyes.
Using
Your Favorite Formula
Powder.
Invest in a professional quality, full-bristled brush designed specifically
for powder blush application. When applying powder blush, don't overload
the brush with color. Excess color will only give you a harsh, overdone
look. Sweep brush lightly across the powder blush pan and tap gently to
get rid of any excess.
Stroke
brush along the edge of the cheekbones, in an upward motion, towards temples,
without going too close to the hairline. Add a touch on the chin and another,
across the brow, brushing in a horizontal direction, to balance the whole
face.
Creme.
Using your fingers, place 3 small dots on cheekbones and blend towards
the temples until color is even. Blend another dot on chin to balance
color.
Liquid
or Gel. Squeeze or stroke a dot of color on fingertip. Blend on cheekbones,
working towards the temples. Reapply if needed to intensify color. Add
a dot on chin and blend, to balance.
Crayon.
Gently make 2-3 light pencil strokes on the cheekbones and blend towards
temples. Add a little on the chin and blend, for balance.
Do's
and Don'ts:
DO
- Apply blush in layers, building color up gradually.
DO
- Invest in a large blush brush designed specifically for blushing.
DO
- Wash powder blush brushes frequently with soap and water. Air-dry to
keep them fresh.
DO
- Wash your hands before and after you blend in crème, liquid or gel blusher
to prevent transferring bacteria to your skin - and staining fingers and
clothes.
DO
- Look at your face from all angles after blushing to make sure every
edge is completely blended.
DON'T
- Blend blusher inwards towards the nose or downwards below your cheekbone
area. Always blend in an upward motion, out towards the edges of your
face.
DON'T
- Overload your brush or apply too much color in the beginning. You'll
only have to remove most of it to achieve the natural look you're after.
DON'T
- Rub your skin hard when you blend. Blend gently with the pads of the
fingers or a soft makeup sponge.
DON'T
- Clash with your other colors. Select a blush color that co-ordinates
with your lip color and your outfit.
Shape
and Blush -- Custom Face Sculpting with Blush
Your
blush color can correct the contours of your face subtly, for the illusion
of a more classic, oval shape and a flawless bone structure. The secret
is in where you place your colors to bring out some features and minimize
less desirable ones.
Ideally,
your cheek color should start at a point no lower than the bottom of the
nose and no farther in than the center of the face. If you place it too
close to the eye it can make eyes look puffy. Blush color should be brushed
in a slight angle upward toward the top of the ears and be well-blended
until edges disappear totally. Never let color extend to the hairline.
The goal is to look glowy - not overdone.
Now
that you know the basic rules, let's bend them to work with your needs.
| For
a long, narrow face:
For
more width, keep the color low - no higher than the lower ledge
of cheekbone - and keep the angle horizontal-level with the mid-point
(not the top) of the ear. Apply color only on the outer third of
the cheeks (cheekcolor in the middle of the face will emphasize
length). |
 |
| 
|
For
a Round, Wide, or Square Face:
For
more length, keep your color in the middle of the face (without
getting too close to the nose. Cheekcolor on the outer third of
your cheeks will only emphasize roundness). |
For
Sky-High Cheekbones. Brush a beige contour color lightly, just under
cheekbone towards the temples and blend lightly, to create a "hollow"
in the cheek area. Then, add your favorite cheekcolor on the ledge of
the cheekbone and angle it towards hairline, as discussed above. Blend
the edges of both colors carefully. Together, they will accentuate
the height of the cheekbone dramatically.
For
beautiful highlights, add a dot of white eyeshadow powder right on top
of the cheekbone, above your blush. Place it right where light normally
hits the bone the strongest, to accent the arch.
|
Erase
a Double Chin.
Dip
your brush in a natural beigy-toned blush and sweep once or twice,
under the chin. This minimizes any excess under the jawline. Warning:
blend meticulously! |
 |
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