| Why
Women are Seeing More and More of Them!
Darn those men!
As if aging gracefully and commanding a higher salary wasn't enough, now
we're finding out that it's their hormones - male hormones
- that are mostly responsible for the rise in adult acne among women!
What's
that?
 Well,
in a nutshell, the story goes something like this: Acne - whether it's
found in teenagers or adults - stems from an overproduction of sebum,
an oily substance that's secreted from a gland in the hair follicle. It's
believed that this sebum, once in overdrive, causes an increased production
of the cells lining the follicle wall, which then shed and (due to the
stickiness of the excess sebum) bind together, creating a build-up of
cellular debris and sebum under the surface of the skin.
Things
get a little nasty once that happens. The build-up of cellular debris
and sebum creates a breeding ground for bacteria within the follicle,
stretching its walls and leading to an eruption of - you've got it
- pimples (a.k.a. blemishes, zits) or more serious inflammations.
So
what does all of this have to do with male hormones and adult acne?
It's male hormones (and we've all got them, girls) that cause the
overproduction of sebum, and one of the body's triggers to releasing those
hormones is stress - something with which today's modern woman
is all too familiar.
Indeed. Many dermatologists report that the greatest increase in
adult acne sufferers is among upwardly mobile, professional women engaged
in stressful careers or women simply juggling too many responsibilities.
In one study, a group of acne patients that underwent a six-week relaxation
program consisting of two sessions a week showed a greater improvement
in their acne symptoms than another group that underwent medical treatment.
Of course, androgens - male-type hormones implicated in acne outbreaks
- can wreak havoc on a woman's complexion anytime the ratio of male-to-female
hormones is upset.
Other triggers capable of upsetting this delicate balance are the
menstrual cycle, menopause, pre-menopause, pregnancy, breast feeding,
and the use of birth-control pills or human growth hormones.
Hormone levels may also be upset following a hysterectomy, from diseases
of the ovaries, adrenal or pituitary glands, or from obesity (because
androgens are stored in body fat).
It's also possible - although unlikely - for medications containing bromides
and iodides (such as asthma relievers, barbiturates, tranquilizers and
lithium) to cause acne flare-ups.
Interestingly, some of the practices long-blamed for causing acne have
nothing to do with the root of the problem - most notably food (think
chocolate and greasy snacks) sex and bad hygiene (remember that acne starts
from within, not from without).
Unlike the acne that plagues teenagers and tends to center around the
forehead and nose (the so-called T-zone), adult acne tends to appear
around the jaw bones, chin and mouth.
One condition that's often confused with acne is rosacea, a skin disease
(usually limited to adults) characterized by facial flushing, dilated
blood vessels, red patches, and at its worst, a bulbous, knobby nose (think
W.C. Fields).
Unlike adult on-set acne, which affects mostly women, rosacea affects
men and women equally, but seems to focus mostly on those of Irish, English,
Scottish, Scandinavian or Eastern European descent.
As for true-blue acne sufferers, there are a number of treatments available,
both on the conventional and alternative front. One of the most important
steps to take is to seek treatment early - before blemishes, cysts and
other types of eruptions have a chance to appear, or worse yet, to scar.
While the same treatments are used for teenagers, as well as adults, adult
skin tends to be drier and more sensitive, and as such, treatments should
be adjusted accordingly.
It's also important to note that simply keeping the acne-prone area clean
- or attacking the problem by excessive scrubbing - can irritate true
acne and won't solve the problem, which starts from within.
Indeed. Too much of a good thing - excessive cleansing or using products
that dry the skin - can actually signal the body to step up oil production
to compensate!
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Conventional
Treatments
In the conventional arena, the first line of defense lies in topical treatments.
For mild cases of acne, over-the-counter medications are often all that's
needed. The most commonly used ones contain benzoyl peroxide, which inhibits
bacterial growth and promotes peeling on the surface of the skin. (Because
of its potentially drying effect, adults should start out using products
containing smaller concentrations of the ingredient - 2.5-to-5 percent
- and increase the amount only if necessary.)
Other acne-fighting ingredients available in over-the-counter medications
include salicyclic acid, sulfur, and resorcinol, all of which promote
peeling and help dry-up blackheads and whiteheads.
Sometimes over-the-counter treatments just won't do the trick, however.
For acne that refuses to respond to simple, non-prescription treatments,
it's important to contact a dermatologist to attack the problem with stronger
medication.
Doctors have an array of topical creams and oral medications available
in their fight against acne. One of more interesting ones is Ortho Tri-Cylen,
the first birth control pill approved for a non-contraceptive use. Although
the pill had been sold since 1992 as a birth control aid, it wasn't until
January of 1997 that it was approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration
as a treatment for acne.
The secret to its success? This birth control pill (as opposed to others,
which can actually cause acne) helps decrease the level of male hormones,
thus helping stop acne in its tracks!
One of the strongest weapons in the war against acne is Accutane, a powerful
medication developed by pharmaceutical giant Hoffmann-La Roche of Nutley,
N.J. Introduced in the late 1970s, Accutane, an artificial form of Vitamin
A, is capable of clearing up even the most severe of acne cases and is
a godsend when antibiotics have proven ineffective.
It's a medication that isn't prescribed lightly, however. It's capable
of producing severe birth defects in pregnant women - a side-effect that
has prompted the manufacturer to require strict adherence to a number
of practices, including the use of two "reliable" forms of contraception
before, during and after treatment, before it's prescribed.
Another breakthrough in the treatment of acne may come in the form of
a high-intensity, light-based technology that was recently acquired by
ESC Medical Systems of Yokneam, Israel, and may be ready for market in
the first quarter of 2001.
Alternative
Treatments
Not everyone has a fondness for antibiotics and birth control pills. Those
looking for a more natural route of treatment may want to heed the advise
of alternative health practitioners, who point to nutritional supplements,
herbal infection fighters, natural skin treatments and exercise as potent
weapons in the fight against acne.
One heavy hitter in the acne-fighting arsenal is Vitamin A, which many
believe actually causes acne when it's diverted away from the skin when
hormone levels increase.
To counteract this deficiency - and restore a clear complexion - it's
recommended that 5,000-to-10,000 IUs of the vitamin be taken during acne
flare-ups. (Those nursing or taking birth control pills - egads!
- should check with a doctor first.)
Also considered important in the fight against acne are Vitamins B5, B6
and C, the minerals zinc and selenium, and a combination of certain herbs
and amylase, an enzyme that breaks down carbohydrates.
Also noteworthy are herbs such as tea tree oil gel, burdock root, Echinacea,
goldenseal and lemon balm - all of which display anti-bacterial properties
- and chamomile (which makes a great, deep-cleansing facial).
As for exercise, it does more than tone muscles and shrink waistlines
- it increases blood circulation and oxygen penetration to the skin, helping
chase away acne, as well as unwanted pounds.
The final word on acne? It may be back, but there's no reason it
has to stay!
Jonna Crispens is a New York-based freelance writer and editor
with a passion for unlocking the secrets to healthy living, anti-aging
and personal style at all ages.
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