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Anatomy of a Wrinkle by Robert Kotler, Lamas Beauty Magazine Contributor
 
Anatomy of a Wrinkle
by Robert Kotler, Lamas Beauty Magazine Contributor
 
 

Ben Franklin was almost right: In this world nothing is certain but death, taxes…and wrinkles!

0ne morning, as you're getting ready for work. the bathroom light hits your cheek in a certain way and you discover you've got wrinkles.

You don't know when they arrived. Or what you've done to deserve them. But from that day forth. the -low of soft lights will always feel comforting.

Wrinkles take years to come of age. The lines that show up today have been decades in the making Repeated facial movements cause expression lines. Add to that the power of gravity and heredity. plus the damage caused by sun. drinking or smoking and you've got the big W.

Gravity. It causes sagging. and you can defy it only so long--but excellent muscle tone and standing on your head may help delay the fall from grace.

Sun. Even casual exposure breaks down collagen and elastin. the protein network that supports the skin. When these collapse. so does the skin. and wrinkles form You can see the sun's destructive power by comparing the skin on your face with the skin on your backside. There ain't no wrinkles where the sun never shines.

Smoking. Cosmetic surgeon Robert Kotler. M.D., discovered smokers were three times more likely to develop deep wrinkles. He found that a third of those who smoked were severely wrinkled but only 12 percent of nonsmokers were. "Smoking causes blood vessels in the skin to constrict, depriving tissue of nutrition." Dr. Kotler explains. "That means less blood flow to the largest organ in the body. the skin. That's why smokers' skin looks older, more wrinkled and is of poorer quality."

Drinking. Alcohol can wreak havoc. because heavy drinkers tend not to eat well-balanced meals. And lack of vitamins --particularly A and E--can make skin age more quickly.


Repairing damage
"We now have evidence that the skin can repair itself-and it's never too late," say Barbara A. Gilchrest, M.D.. of Boston University School of Medicine. sun damage if you use high SPF sunscreens and avoid prolonged hours in the sun." Exercise also helps. since increased blood flow to the skin provides extra nourishment and oxygen. For deep furrows, however. you'll need medical treatment:
The so-called miracle drug, Retin-A, is a topical ointment that has FDA approval as an anti-acne cream. It is now being used as an anti-aging treatment-but it's only effective on fine wrinkles.

Face lifts can aid sagging skin, but they do not remove fine lines or improve the texture of the skin. So far only chemical skin peels and abrasion to the surface of the skin-the two most popular means of refining skin texture can eliminate most wrinkles.
Dermabrasion is an office procedure done under local anesthetic. A special tool scrapes the skin. smoothing out irregularities in the outermost layer. Cost may range from $350 to $3,500. depending on the extent of the treatment. Chemical peels are a surgical procedure performed under general anesthesia. They're the most aggressive-and painful-treatment for wrinkles. Strong chemicals. called phenol or trichloroacetic acid, cause the top layer of' skin to separate from the deep layer, as they would in a blistering burn. It takes from five to eight days for a new layer of skin to form. but when it does, it is smooth and baby-soft.
The skin will often remain red, as if sunburned, for eight to 12 weeks after surgery but the color can be hidden with protective makeup. The cost of a peel. which is often coupled with a face lift, can top the $5,000 mark. Is wrinkle-free skin worth all the money. time and potential pain? Many women seem to think so. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons says chemical peels are fast becoming one of the most popular procedures.


Wrinkles are okay
But there is another counter-trend away from excessive cosmetic surgery. Perhaps encouraged by First Lady Barbara Bush. who wears her lines as beautifully as her pearls, many women look in the mirror and feel at peace with nature. And over-40 beauties like Lauren Hutton and Linda Evans, who haven't erased all evidence of time, are proving that healthy, beautiful skin can be attractive-even if it doesn't look like a 20-year-old's. The key is a lifetime dedication to sound nutrition, no cigarettes and no sun. by Paddy Calistro


Dr. Robert Kotler, Beverly Hills, CA has performed more than 5,000 major cosmetic procedures during 25 years in private practice. As a spokesperson for cosmetic surgeons, he regularly appears on radio and television, including ABC, CBS, NBC, CNN and Fox News; 48 Hours and Oprah . He has been interviewed in most leading magazines and newspapers. Read Dr. Rober Kotler's full biography.

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