A Guide to Thermal Reconditioning, Part 5 - by Leslie Correa
 
 
A Guide to TR (Part 5)
           Maintaning your Thermal Reconditioned Hair
by Leslie Correa ¤ Lamas Beauty Magazine Contributor

Leslie Correa is a nationally renowned hair designer and hair chemical specialist, (Color, Perms, Relaxers) he has devoted the past 24 years perfecting his craft in the art of hair design. He has devoted his career to knowing how to refine the best qualities of your hair and bringing out its natural beauty.

Based in New York and traveling to work with some of Europe's and America's highly recognized design teams, Leslie takes a realistic approach to hairstyling and has developed a personal design style allowing him to create looks that highlight a person's best features.

A Guide to TR - by  Leslie Correa

Types of treatments to maintain your 'TR'ed hair
If the results aren't favorable

(Dry hair, Breakage, the Bends)

Did you just get your hair straightened?
Do you wonder if you made a mistake in doing this?
Did your hair stylist tell you to relax and it will become normal in the next few days?
Is your hair feeling & looking SOOOO very thin now?
Are you scared that your going to look like you have hardly any hair?
Are you starting to miss your curly hair now?
Does your scalp feel weird? Hard? Like your skin isn't soft anymore? Like a thin, tight cap on your head? Are you noticing that your hair is bent close to the root area?
Does the base of the hair feel weird? Bunched up & Wiry? Like hairs that are knotted together?

        Has anyone heard any bad stories like this?
    Sorry for the bad news. But;

This is what happens with a TR gone really bad!!!!!!
Your hair has been over processed.
After spending $?00.00 on this procedure you would think that your hair would be a dream come true.
That's why it's necessary to do research on the product and the stylist before getting it done.
There's no real way to reverse the effects of a bad TR. There are only remedies for saving the hair you still have left.

Hair loss
Most likely your hair will be thinner for a few months. Even when the TR comes out great you'll still experience your hair thinning out because you're altering the curl pattern of the hair and the extreme nature of the process. Curly to straight. So expect some hair loss from 2 days-6 months.

Breakage and bunched up, wiry hairs
The hair that's wiry and bunched up is over processed hair that hasn't broken off yet. And with a few treatments might be straightened again.

Tight scalp
The weird tight feeling on your scalp is caused by the chemical lying on your scalp to long. An alkaline substance such as the chemicals in a TR product can cause the pores to expand, swell & dry out all the natural oils from the scalp. (this is another reason for hair loss) Then it will contract. So it's like a scab that needs to heal.
Don't worry; it will go away in a few days and hopefully there won't be too much hair loss from the lack of oxygen to the follicles.
The hair at the root always processes faster; do to the heat from the scalp. The chemicals tend to creep toward the scalp so it's recommended that the chemical stay ½ to ¾ inch away from the scalp.

The Bends
The place's where your hair is "bent" happens because the stylist laid the hair to flat on the scalp when doing the TR. It's another reason why its recommended that the chemical stay ½ to ¾ inch away from the scalp.
There are two different types of bends that can occur during the TR process.

  • A chemical bend, which can happen from the straightener being left on too long and the neutralizer going to flat to the scalp. This may break the hair if you are not gentle.
  • A mechanical bend, which happens from improper ironing of the hair during the process. These bends are permanent and very difficult to remove. Removing them can be a dangerous process. It's best to wait until the hair grows out or can be looked at, after the TR process.

It is during the three to four day period after TR where one must be very gentle because most of the above damage occurs during this period. I had indicated all these precautions and what to do in case this happens.

If you have the bends, it is necessary to correct it, eventually. Protein treatments are advised before attempting to straighten a bend.
There is an affect that we stylists know of as the hinge affect.
Simply explained-If you take a paper clip and bend it back and forth, it will eventually break at that point where it is bent. The hair is more fragile than a paper clip but the wind, blow-drying, shampooing moves the hair causing it to eventually break.

Allow your head to rest for a period of 3 to 4 after the TR before you begin with the treatments. You should be very gentle because most of the breakage occurs during this period.

For damaged hair:
Ceramide, hyaluronic acid, keratin, collagen, chitosan & silk are proteins and emollients that will strengthen and restore the elasticity to the hair. Some are more fibrous and are not good to use more than once a month. (Ex PPT) Some have a combination of Polypeptides in them and can strengthen and keep the hair flexible like Gloss.
PPT
Gloss
Crede
Phi ten Bella
Mucota B3

Have treatments you can do at home.

  •  Two-step treatment: around $45 to $60
  •  Four-step treatment: around $75 to $100
     The prices are different due to different quality of protein.

1 Ceramides
penetrate each strand of hair to replace the ceramide loss and reduce the resulting hair brittleness and hair split-ends. The use of Ceramides in hair care products increases the strength, thickness, smoothness and shine to the hair.
2 Hyaluronic acid
A key component of collagen. It makes up much of the material in between cells and provides structure to the hair. Like mortar to a brick. Hyaluronic acid was discovered in Yuzurihara Japan. A small Japanese village outside of Tokyo.
3 Keratin
Fibrous protein. Protects individual areas with its elaborate structure, contains a lot of cystine. And rebuilds the cuticle this is a protein that makes the hair hard.
4 Collagen
Found mainly in skin, tooth, blood vessels. Fibrous protein, flexible and protects the hair. It leaves the hair soft with high moisture retention.
5 Silk protein
Originated in silk. Fibrous protein. Forms an elaborate smooth membrane. It gives the characteristic of smooth touch. We need different techniques according to the functions of different proteins. By going to the salon once a month for protein treatments and by maintaining deep conditioning at home, the results will last longer.
6 Chitosan
A clear solution that contains chitosan forms a clear, elastic film on hair, increasing its softness and mechanical strength. Chitosan acts as an antistatic and protects the hair from perms, straighteners and color.

If you have severe damage, speak to the owner of the salon? The least they can do is refund your money. Not a solution to your problem but SOME satisfaction.


Read the Complete Guide to Thermal Reconditioning (TR) "A Guide to TR"


Leslie Correa

Leslie is the dynamic owner of Manhattan's exclusive Capelli D'Oro Salon & Day Spa, bringing in over 24 years of experience and mastery to each color & cut he creates. Leslie goes to great lengths to make his client's feel like their hair is their best accessory, and together, they decide on a look that is perfectly reflective of their lifestyle.

Once called the "Rembrandt of Hair," Leslie is highly regarded for his exquisite ability to create natural looking highlights and three-dimensional color. Leslie considers every cut a "custom cut," and has spent the better part of his career developing innovative techniques for less linear, more customized haircuts.

And while he realizes nobody is perfect, chances are he'll get your hair closer to perfection than you ever thought possible. During the course of Leslie's impressive and expansive career, he has worked on the celebrities and socialites of NY and continues to add loyal fans - celebs and non-celebs alike. "Fresh ideas come from staying in touch."

Capelli D'Oro Salon & Day Spa,
847 Lexington Avenue
New York, New York 10021
(212)288-7100

 
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