A Guide to Thermal Reconditioning, Part 2 - by Leslie Correa
 
 
A Guide to TR (Part 2)
           The Process of Thermal Reconditioning
by Leslie Correa ¤ Lamas Beauty Magazine Contributor

Leslie Correa is a nationally renowned hair designer and hair chemical specialist, (Color, Perms, Relaxers) he has devoted the past 24 years perfecting his craft in the art of hair design. He has devoted his career to knowing how to refine the best qualities of your hair and bringing out its natural beauty.

Based in New York and traveling to work with some of Europe's and America's highly recognized design teams, Leslie takes a realistic approach to hairstyling and has developed a personal design style allowing him to create looks that highlight a person's best features.

A Guide to TR - by  Leslie Correa

The process of Thermal Reconditioning
(what to expect during the service)

How does it work? Is it right for me?

There are 15 to 20 steps to this process. How many steps depends on your hair and the speed of the stylist. I always recommend you bring a book and plan on lunch. Here is a simple overview of the process.

1. The consultation
They will test for tensile strength, porosity, elasticity and hair damage.
2. Shampoo the hair
Shampoo gently.
3. Partially dry the hair
4. Protect the hair for the type of porosity that it has
Ex. Highlighted, previously relaxed, color treated.
5. Apply the defrizzer or the activator
The activator should be applied ½ to ¾ of an inch away from the scalp so that your hair won't get breakage or a bend) this is where the magic begins.
6. Allow the hair to process
The stylist should begin to take strand test after 5 minutes but the activator could stay on for as long as an hour depending on the strength of your curl.
7. Perform the strand test
the strand test is a very important part of this procedure there are several different methods to perform the strand test and the stylist should be able to perform at least 3 on you.
8. Rinse the activator out well
9. Apply a treatment conditioner
10. Apply a heat protector to the hair
It could be PPT or ID silk care.
11. Blow-dry the hair again
12. Patiently Iron the hair
This step requires a lot of patience and expertise. these are very specialized irons that can adjust heat between 80 to 220 degrees Celsius and keep it constant. The ironing process is used on ½ inch sections of hair & can take up to an hour and a half, sometimes employing two stylists at once. The irons permanently lock in the straightness and moisture. The right temperature is key.
13. Apply the neutralizer and let process
Like regular perms, neutralizer is then applied and left in, which stabilizes the pH balance.
14. Apply a treatment conditioner
15. Apply a heat protector to the hair
16. Blow-dry the hair again
17. Apply the flat iron as needed
  • Does it work on highlighted, dyed or bleached hair?
    Yes, but major precautions must be made in order to get the most favorable results. Thick and coarse hair can withstand the double dosage of chemicals, but people with damaged or fine heads should consult with experienced master TR stylist.

    Bleached or highlighted hair is a damage risk, so a strand test will first determine whether it can handle the procedure. It can be done with a lot of care. The best stylists know that treated hair warrants a consultation and conditioning treatments before a TR is tried

  • Extremely curly hair
    The major deterrent for extremely curly types is the awkward regrowth factor. It may not look good when the roots start growing out, because you can see all the curl very quickly. Clients can come in for touch-ups in 2 months to soften up that new growth. A solution is applied to the new growth. It's not as strong as the TR but it will soften up the curl so that it will look more normal until your ready for a full out TR.

  • Pregnancy and Thermal Reconditioning
    During the pregnancy and two-three months following the termination of pregnancy, colors do not last. TR and permanent hair straightening do not take well and may have early reversion. This may be due to hormonal changes in your body.

    Typically, pregnant women's hormones fluctuate quite a bit during pregnancy and don't normalize until after nursing is completed. No doctor or manufacturer has any specific evidence on how this affects the body or the fetus. But hairdressers have experienced adverse effects of the process not taking properly on pregnant woman. My advice is against trying to chemically straighten the hair until after nursing. TR is a timely processing, and there aren't many breaks in between.


Part 3 of the series "Preparing your Hair for Thermal Reconditioning"


Leslie Correa

Leslie is the dynamic owner of Manhattan's exclusive Capelli D'Oro Salon & Day Spa, bringing in over 24 years of experience and mastery to each color & cut he creates. Leslie goes to great lengths to make his client's feel like their hair is their best accessory, and together, they decide on a look that is perfectly reflective of their lifestyle.

Once called the "Rembrandt of Hair," Leslie is highly regarded for his exquisite ability to create natural looking highlights and three-dimensional color. Leslie considers every cut a "custom cut," and has spent the better part of his career developing innovative techniques for less linear, more customized haircuts.

And while he realizes nobody is perfect, chances are he'll get your hair closer to perfection than you ever thought possible. During the course of Leslie's impressive and expansive career, he has worked on the celebrities and socialites of NY and continues to add loyal fans - celebs and non-celebs alike. "Fresh ideas come from staying in touch."

Capelli D'Oro Salon & Day Spa,
847 Lexington Avenue
New York, New York 10021
(212)288-7100

 
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